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Climbing at 08. Ostroh Španělské stěny

124 routes
11 areas
2+–10 grades

Part of 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 08. Ostroh Španělské stěny has 124 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 10. Explore its 11 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from February 1st to June 30th. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Climb in daylight only.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • Jumps between towers are not allowed.
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84876, 14.23203

7+/8-
Rozlámaná stěna
From the 3rd bolt of the route Střepy znamenají štěstí (Shards Mean Happiness), 3 m along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Rozlámaná stěna
In the right part of the wall approx. 10m to the left of "Walk the Line" a sharp edge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Rozlámaná stěna
From the 3rd bolt of the "Earthquake Free Zone" route, to the right along a distinct edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
Rozlámaná stěna
Start from the belay (stand) of the route "Tectonic Plate" to the 2nd bolt and then to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7/7+
Rozlámaná stěna
To the right of the route Chleba s máslem (starting from the upper terrace) belay (1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6+/7-
Rozlámaná stěna
To the right of the "Osmibřízková" route, through the middle of the wall over a bolt to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Rozlámaná stěna
To the left of the prominent roof-like overhang, up the corner crack under the overhang.… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7/7+
Rozlámaná stěna
From the 1st bolt of the route Chleba s máslem (Bread with Butter) up the wall and a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Rozlámaná stěna
To the left of the route "Crazy Sima" directly over 4K to the 2nd bolt of the route … Rock Climbing
5+
Španělská stěna
Start from the corner between Spanish Boot and Spanish Wall. Up the small wall into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Španělská stěna
Between the Čenkaká tunten and Flamengo routes, up the wall (4BH) to the ring of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Španělská stěna
From the 1st bolt of Snů spravedlivých, up the wall to the left and then straight up over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Španělská stěna
To the right of "Kvapík", up the wall over 3 bolts and the crack to the terrace near the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Španělská stěna
Up the chimney and crack to the right of "Kvapík" directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Španělská stěna
In the right part of the wall, up the second crack from the right and up the wall into… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7-/7
Španělská stěna
To the left of "Flamengo", up the wall (hourglass) to the 1st bolt. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
2+
Španělská stěna
Up the wall to the left of the Beginning of the End route, see photo. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Španělská stěna
To the right of "Windy Hole", up the crack to the balcony and up the wall (bolt) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Španělská stěna
To the left of "Kvapík", up the wall over 3 bolts to the balcony. Up the wall directly to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Španělská stěna
To the right of "February Victory", up the chimney in the large corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
2+
Španělská stěna
To the left of the Maňána route, see photo. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Španělská stěna
To the left of "February Victory", up the wall to the footbridge. Along the edge over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Španělská stěna
By the edge to the left of the chimney to the slanting ledge. Along it to the left (belay… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7-/7
Španělská stěna
From the footbridge, up the wall over 4 bolts to the summit. Nice wall climbing over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Španělská stěna
From the footbridge, chimneying to the 1st bolt and up the wall over ledges (3 bolts) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Španělská stěna
Up the slab to the right of Tapas via 5 BH and a loop to the sling under the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Španělská stěna
To the right of the Chorizo route, up the wall to the left past 6 BH to the 6th BH of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Španělská stěna
To the right of the Nachoz route, up the wall past 7 BH to the belay BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Španělská stěna
From the rappel of the Coca de Verdura route, up the overhanging wall via 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Španělská stěna
To the right of "Výroční spára", up the chimney between the block and the massif,… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1

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