Ostroh Španělské stěny on the right bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 120 routes – most on Španělská stěna, Pyramida, Rozlámaná stěna and Jižní bašta, with more on Penzion svět and Španělská bota. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection, often in the sun; grades from 2+ to 10.
Part of 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 08. Ostroh Španělské stěny has 124 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 10. Explore its 11 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route on sun, Vertical wall.
Rules
- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021
Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from February 1st to June 30th. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park
- Climb in daylight only.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- Jumps between towers are not allowed.
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Španělská stěna Pyramida Rozlámaná stěna Jižní bašta Penzion svět Španělská bota Štikas Pištec Mimoni Strážce pyramidy Podzemí
7-/7
Degradace hodnot
Using a chimney technique in the SW face to the 1st anchor. Traverse left, using a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Kakaová řeka
From the start of Tichá dohoda (rappel bolt), using a chimney technique (1st BH) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
9/9+
Na štandu
From the pillar in the west face, over the overhang via 2 bolts (BH) directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Darmoděj
In the west face, up the pillar via 2 bolts (BH) and left to the edge. Along the edge via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Tichá dohoda
Start from the foothills. Up the right overhanging edge to the ledge, traverse left and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5+
Cheopsův tunel
Like the "Pharaoh's Bedchamber" route, via the belay station into the chimney. Up it,… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
9/9+
Cestománie
To the left of the "Path of Enlightenment", via 2 bolts (BH) to the ledge (belay). Over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
All Seeing Eye
From the balcony on the north side (BH), to the right of the "Path of Enlightenment", up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Cesta osvícení
To the left of "Pharaoh's Bedchamber" from the balcony on the north side (BH), up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Faraónova ložnice
On the right in the north face, up the prominent corner crack to a large ledge (belay… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Proti všem
In the left part of the northwest face, up the right crack to the rappel. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Šária
To the right of the "Magic Eye" route, up the crack to the 3rd bolt (BH) of the "Magic… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Magický voko
In the left part of the north face, to the left of the corner, up the pillar via 3 bolts … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
7/7+
Uber
To the left of the "Magic Eye" route, between the cracks, directly via a bolt (BH) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Zelená moc
In the left part of the northwest face, up the left crack to the rappel. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8-/8
Kurt Cobain
To the left of "Uber", directly up the face via a bolt (BH) to the rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Pro padesát plus
In the right part of the wall (to the right of the prominent protrusion) edge to the bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Benefice černých koní
In the right part of the wall, briefly to the shelf. Up the wall over 3BH to the hollow.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Berná mince
In the left part of the wall over 2BH and a clock to the platform to the ring. From the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Buřty, pívo a nenávist
In the left side wall, over a bolt to the small balcony. Up the sloping wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Milostné dopisy
In the right side wall, briefly to the shelf and after it to the left. Sloping slab (BH)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Varianta Buřty, pívo a nenávist
Along the left downhill edge over 2BH to the balcony. Continue with the route "Sausages,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Stáří
In the middle of the downhill wall over 4BH to the balcony and diagonally to the right… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Hovory z lán
"To the left of Pride, through the middle of the small wall over two bolts to the top of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Kamenem do hlavy
In the right part of the wall to the left of a prominent pillar, corner notches and edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Pátá cenová skupina
In the left side wall, up the crack to the balcony and to the left up the wall over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Bolts on Fire
To the right of "Walk the Line" up the wall (bolts) to the shelf and right along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Walk the Line
To the right of "With a Stone on Your Head" from the shelf (large block) up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay