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Climbing at 08. Ostroh Španělské stěny

124 routes
11 areas
2+–10 grades

Ostroh Španělské stěny on the right bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 120 routes – most on Španělská stěna, Pyramida, Rozlámaná stěna and Jižní bašta, with more on Penzion svět and Španělská bota. The climbing is traditional on vertical sandstone walls with rings and textile protection, often in the sun; grades from 2+ to 10.

Part of 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 08. Ostroh Španělské stěny has 124 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2+ to 10. Explore its 11 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from February 1st to June 30th. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Climb in daylight only.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • Jumps between towers are not allowed.
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84876, 14.23203

6
Pištec
In the left part of the south side, climb the face via 2 chockstones (K) to the top. … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pištec
To the right of the "Music from the Mountains" route (2K) to the rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pištec
Through the center of the face, up the slab (3K), and higher up on the left, chimney and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Podzemí
Climb the overhanging wall via a bolt (bh) to the 2nd bolt (bh), traverse right into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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