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Climbing at Northern areas

4849 routes
12 areas
1–12 grades

The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.

The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.

Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

1
Toulavá
Step over from the boulder (clock) and left along the ledge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kalvan
NC on Sumec to the ledge under the abseil. Step over to the NE wall and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Toulavá
Up the side wall to a flat hole and right to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Sumec
North wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Sumec
South wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Sumec
SE edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Sumec
From the boulder, up the wall over the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Sumec
SW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Sumec
SE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
3
Sumec
By a chimney using opposition technique, then with a swing to the right into the gully… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Sumec
East edge to the ledge, traverse right across the NE wall into the hole and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Sumec
Jump from Kalvan. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kalvan
North edge over the clock to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Sněžný masiv
Right crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Sněžný masiv
Left crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
9
Bujón
NE wall to the ring, briefly up and right behind the edge (clock). Directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Sněžný masiv
Through the center of the weathered wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
9
Sněžný masiv
Wall to the ring and right into the sloping ledge and then to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Fishkars
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Krchovský masiv
Through the crack (knot) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Krchovský masiv
By the crack in the side wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Krchovský masiv
Sharp edge over the circle to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Tři kříže
From the valley over the overhang into the crack and up it to the ledge (large hourglass)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Voliéra
By the chimney and wall (hourglass) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Voliéra
By the side crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Voliéra
By the crack in the right part of the wall to the end (ring) and from the left along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Dvorní dáma
By a step-over into the overhanging crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Dvorní dáma
By the overhanging north face, using small holds between the left edge and the small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Hradní bašta
Directly to the summit from the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Dvorní dáma
Rock Climbing Textile belay

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