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Climbing at Northern areas

4849 routes
12 areas
1–12 grades

The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.

The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.

Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

4
Dvorní dáma
By the crack, higher up by the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Hradní bašta
In the left part of the wall, slightly upwards and traverse right in the ledge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Fonteknedlo
Left behind the edge through the center of the wall and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Fonteknedlo
Along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Hradní rytíř
NW wall (bolt, ring) to the clock on the "valley path" and that to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Hradní rytíř
Up the upland wall over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-/6
Hradní rytíř
From the right valley edge right to the 1st ring. Straight (2nd ring) to the 'clock' on… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hradní rytíř
Start in the valley wall to the ring, over the overhanging hole and over the clock to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Hradní rytíř
From the upland side, traverse to the ledge. From there to the second ring of the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Hradní věžička
Up the chimney between the edge and the tower, past the 'clock', to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Hradní věžička
Up the southern edge to the ledge (clock on the left) and directly over the "belly" to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Hradní věžička
Directly along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Hradní věžička
Up the center of the valley-facing wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Hradní věžička
Jump from the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Dárek
Through the center of the West face to the adjacent block, traverse to the SE edge, up it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Dárek
Straight up the right valley-side wall past the 2nd rings and then left to the 3rd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Dárek
Through the center of the valley-side wall and to the right to the 1st ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Dárek
Up the valley-side crack to the ring, left into the hand crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Dárek
Along the left NE edge past 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Dárek
Chimney between the tower and the edge and then a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Krčičínek
In the ledges diagonally to the right towards the bolt, with a clean stance from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Krčičínek
Straight up the overhanging wall past the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Masivy děsu v údolí běsu
Up the groove, past a ring, to a small balcony. Pull up into the saddle and onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Masivy děsu v údolí běsu
Up the crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Masivy děsu v údolí běsu
Up the overgrown edge under the overhang to the ring and straight to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Masivy děsu v údolí běsu
Up the left corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Masivy děsu v údolí běsu
Up the right corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Masivy děsu v údolí běsu
Chimney through a wedged boulder or a crawl through the internal space and then higher up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Rampa
Along the edge using steps to the end, left around the edge (bolt) and diagonally left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Masivy děsu v údolí běsu
Up the sharp edge, past a ring, to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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