The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.
The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.
Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.
Rules
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
- Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
- Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
- Abseil only from fixed anchors.
- Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
- Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
- First ascents usually need prior approval.
On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.
Klokočské skály Zbirohy Betlémské skály Suché skály Panteon Drábovna Skály na Sokolu - Kalich Měsíční údolí pod Kozákovem (Proskalí) Frýdštejn Skály na Sokolu - Chléviště Koberovy Skály na Sokolu - Sokol
7+/8-
Svatý vít
Up the middle of the east wall to the left of the Uncertain route, over the ring to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Svatá Barbora
Chimney from the south, over the ring to the balcony and up the gully (2nd ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Váhavá cesta
Over the overhang into the gully, follow it to the ring and diagonally right to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Šikmá varianta
Diagonally up the crack in the SW wall to the right up to the ring of the Bač-bač jucharé… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Paridův soud
From NE, a chimney onto the edge (clock) and then along the edge over a ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Normální cesta
From SE into the left wall of the wide chimney up to the crack, right onto the wedged… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Var. Kulový
Via "Direct Smoke" up to the 2nd ring, then right onto the edge of "Seven" and continue… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Golden doj
Up the wall over the ring into the hole and left onto the edge to the "Judgment of Paris"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Bač - bač jucharé
Up the small chimney to the ledge and right onto the small balcony to the ring (added… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Varianta Paridova soudu
From the passage diagonally right to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Sedma nahoru
Up the North edge over 2 rings to the top (2nd ring installed later). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Přímej čoud
To the left of the "Seven Up" route, up the wall to the 1st ring, then to the 2nd ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Křišťálová hrana
Up the West edge over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Kulový blesk
To the right of the chimney in the NW face along the thin crack to the ring and directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Trojský kůň
Up the SE chimney to the ring, slightly upwards, traverse left to the South edge and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Prázdninová sonáta
Up the NE sharp edge directly over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Sicilský klan
Through the center of the NE face and along the corner climbing over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Sparťanská výchova
To the left of the rappel chimney, up the face using the edge, higher up the face to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Debilní cesta
Up the South edge to the shelf, up the sloping slab and higher up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Jižní cesta
Through the center of the South face, past the hourglass, directly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Čongobugy
In the left part of the valley wall, over the small overhang and to the edge to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Severní sokolík
Up the right North crack directly below the rappel station to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Okurková sezóna
Up the right West edge over the overhang to the shelf, along it to the left, up into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay