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Climbing at Northern areas

4849 routes
12 areas
1–12 grades

The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.

The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.

Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

7/7+
Zlobivá Iva
Up the wall via a ring to the pyrite and from there directly into the chimney and through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zlobivá Iva
Via the "Futurism" route to the ring. Right via the crack to the balcony and through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Saský masiv
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Zlobivá Iva
Up the small wall via a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Zlobivá Iva
Via the crack to a hold and traverse right into the "Quickie". Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Hodná Dana
Along the W edge to the ring, into the ledge to the 2nd ring of the "Dana has a given"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Hodná Dana
Through the right part of the NE face and via the small dihedral to the 1st ring. Up into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zlobivá Iva
Up the small wall to the left of the edge to the bolt and along the edge slightly right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Hodná Dana
Via the SW small dihedral (hourglasses) and up the wall via a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hodná Dana
Traverse in the holes to the ring and directly up the rounded rib to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zlobivá Iva
Through the chimney over the boulder and right via the crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Zlobivá Iva
Via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Pláň
Via small dihedrals to the end to the ring. Through a twice-broken corner over the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Pláň
Via the small dihedral (sling) to the end to the 1st ring, up the wall to the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Falešný ovar
Along the right valley edge to the small balcony to the ring and via the crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Pláň
Up a short plateau wall (behind the edge to the right of Lucretia) from the gully via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Pláň
Via the crack to the small balcony, upwards, traverse right and along the edge via a ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Pláň
Via the double crack to the end (hourglass), traverse left and via another crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Pláň
Via the crack over the ring into the chimney and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Falešný ovar
Via the crack into the hole (sling) and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pláň
In the overhang via the small dihedral and crack into the wide section "Bloody Mom",… Rock Climbing
4+
Zajíček
NW edge to the small ledge, traverse into the W wall and through its middle to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Zajíček
Up the wall over small hourglasses to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Zajíček
Through the middle of the E face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Zajíček
Along the NE edge under the overhang and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Zajíček
Through the notch/gully in the W wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Zajíček
Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Zajíček
Along the NW edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Zajíček
SW wall to the hourglasses (without pine tree), left to the iron-rich step and directly… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Falešný ovar
Through the middle of the wall via a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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