The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.
The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.
Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.
Rules
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
- Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
- Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
- Abseil only from fixed anchors.
- Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
- Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
- First ascents usually need prior approval.
On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.
Klokočské skály Zbirohy Betlémské skály Suché skály Panteon Drábovna Skály na Sokolu - Kalich Měsíční údolí pod Kozákovem (Proskalí) Frýdštejn Skály na Sokolu - Chléviště Koberovy Skály na Sokolu - Sokol
5
Vrata do pekla
Through a crack and a squeeze to the ring, through a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Plíživá spára
Through the chimney between the tower and the edge, and the sloping crack to the left to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kelibene
Up the left edge of the pillar to the ledge, right and straight to the 1st ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kelibene - přímá var.
From the 1st ring of the "Kelibene" route straight to the 2nd ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Natibene
From the right crack to the ledge, left along it and straight to the 1st ring of the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Políček
Through the crack (hourglass) to the ring. Lift to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Smekvestum
From the foreland to the rounded edge, along it through the ring to the diagonal ramp,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Moribundus
Freely to the ledge (belay), up the wall slightly to the right, past the ring, n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pasti, pasti, pastičky
From the chimney, traverse left along the ledge to the edge by the ring. Left onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Tenkrát na západě
In the left part of the valley face via the small dihedral to a sharp ledge, right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Cesta přes kyz
From the boulder below the rappel point diagonally right to the edge and over a prominent… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Fil pedo
From the gully in the upper part of the wall via a crack to the ring. Left via receding… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Záftra na vychodě
In the valley face via the left crack to the break, further up the wall over the 1st ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Akvabelik - Varianta krasoplavec
To the right of the valley crack, through the middle of the small pillar into the ledge… Rock Climbing Danger
5
Rotující kedluben
Via the crack to the forepeak and Normal Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4+
Údolní spára
Via the valley crack, higher up the chimney to the forepeak and Normal Route to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
3
Normální cesta
Via any chimney to the forepeak and up a short wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Akvabelik
Briefly via the valley crack, in the ledge right into the center of the pillar and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Ztopořená
Up the wall or crack to the left of "Strunka" to the ring. From the left and higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Strunka brnka
Via the double crack to the ledge and via the "To Jakub's Name Day" route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Magická šestka
Through the middle of the plateau wall into a diagonally right-trending ledge and along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Údolní cesta
Via the overhanging small dihedral to the ring, traverse left into the crack and through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay