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Climbing at Northern areas

4849 routes
12 areas
1–12 grades

The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.

The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.

Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

5+
Saská věž
Up the plateau wall to the ledge, traverse left to the W edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Saská věž
Via a short edge to the notch (sling) and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Hodná Dana
Via the short NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Pláň
Via the "Lucretia Borgia" route to the hourglasses and along the edge via a ring to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Dvojitá věž
Via the ridge crossing from Soukromá. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Dvojitá věž
Through the middle of the SW wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Dvojitá věž
By narrow wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Dvojitá věž
By stemming higher up along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Dvojitá věž
By SW edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Dvojitá věž
By corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Dvojitá věž
Through the middle of the wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Dvojitá věž
By S edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Dvojitá věž
By crack from the north. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Poradní věž
From the fore-peak left to the W edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Poradní věž
From the forepeak diagonally right to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Poradní věž
SW chimney to the hour-glasses, transition into the twin crack and up it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Boban
From the edge on the plateau side. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Srnčí věž
Through the crack in the S wall to the small balcony and to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Královna
Through a zigzag crack in the NW wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Královna
Up the small wall to the right of the edge to the bolt, left to the sharp edge and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Královna
Up the right edge over a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Královna
Start along the left valley edge and right to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Královna
Up the middle of the wall over the overhang to the ring and further up the middle of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Šašek
Up the small wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Šašek
Up the valley wall over a ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Šašek
In the right part of the valley wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Král (Pavlač)
Up the left part of the SE wall to the ring, along the double crack into the chimney and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Šašek
Along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Král (Pavlač)
Along the edge directly from the valley. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Panoš
Up the small V-edge over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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