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Climbing at Northern areas

4849 routes
12 areas
1–12 grades

The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.

The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.

Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Klokočské skály 1298 routes Zbirohy 907 routes Betlémské skály 781 routes Suché skály 392 routes Panteon 303 routes Drábovna 303 routes Skály na Sokolu - Kalich 262 routes Měsíční údolí pod Kozákovem (Proskalí) 242 routes Frýdštejn 164 routes Skály na Sokolu - Chléviště 141 routes Koberovy 41 routes Skály na Sokolu - Sokol 15 routes
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2
Centrální stěna - levá část
Up the steps from the West to the ramp. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Věž nad kaplí
"Old route" below the wall, through a narrow chimney and higher up along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Věž nad kaplí
From the courtyard gradually right below the summit wall, then through a depression left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Centrální stěna - levá část
Via the crack, higher up via the chimney. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Centrální stěna - levá část
Via the chimney, higher up along the edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Centrální stěna - levá část
Right of the edge, through a corner to the ledge, right and via the chimney to the ramp. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Centrální stěna - levá část
Up the pillar between the routes "South Wind" and "Good Morning" over 3 bolt hangers to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Vrchol s křížem
Like the "Saddle Route" up the crack, left and up the wall to the small plateau … Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Vrchol s křížem
Directly up the wall and right up the crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vrchol s křížem
Up the shallow crack in the right part of the S face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vrchol s křížem
From the plateau below the E face up the ridge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Věž Ivy Kovářové
From E up the chimney over the wedged boulder and with a high step. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Věž Ivy Kovářové
By jumping from the Summit with a cross. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Věž Ivy Kovářové
Up the small corner under the overhang, directly to the horizontal crack, left along it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Věž Ivy Kovářové
From the ring to the right onto the ledge and directly. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vrchol s křížem
Up the wall to the left of the edge on the plates to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vrchol s křížem
Up the chimney to the wedged boulder, step into the wall and through the hollow. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
5+
Věž Ivy Kovářové
Step from the boulder onto the SW edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Věž Ivy Kovářové
Via the "North Wind" route 4 meters to the horizontal crack (sling), up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Věž Ivy Kovářové
Up the "East Face" to the wedged boulder. Right behind the edge and along the ledge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Věž Ivy Kovářové
From the plateau below the W face diagonally left to the NW edge, left behind the edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Věž Ivy Kovářové
From Mnich by jumping onto the ledge in the W face and via the 'Normal Route' to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Malý Panteon - severní stěna
Before the end of the crack, right into the wall Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Malý Panteon - severní stěna
Left of the SW edge up the wall to small cracks, higher up via a double crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Panteonský špičák
Middle of the South wall along the prominent crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Panteonský špičák
From the path below the N face along the left or right crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Panteonský špičák
Along the NE corner through the holes, traverse right into the left chimney in the N face… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Panteonský špičák
Along the SE edge to the resonating block and up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Panteonský špičák
From the 'Normal Route' traverse upwards into the N face and up the chimney. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Panteonský špičák
Corner crack in the SW wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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