The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.
The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.
Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.
Rules
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
- Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
- Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
- Abseil only from fixed anchors.
- Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
- Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
- First ascents usually need prior approval.
On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.
Klokočské skály Zbirohy Betlémské skály Suché skály Panteon Drábovna Skály na Sokolu - Kalich Měsíční údolí pod Kozákovem (Proskalí) Frýdštejn Skály na Sokolu - Chléviště Koberovy Skály na Sokolu - Sokol
3
Východní spára
From the platform through the crack all the way to the South wall and onto the ridge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Východní sestupová
Through a prominent corner from the NE easily to the ridge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Dávno lezená
Up the wall into the crack, follow it to the end, right into another crack and up it to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Bez polibku
Through the crack under the overhang, traverse right under it and over it to the pine… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Vrcholová stěna
Up the wall between the corner and the edge diagonally to the ridge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
9-
Sladké je žít
Through the crack under the overhang (belay station), onto blocks, over the overhang into… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Levá hrana
Overhang to the left edge of the pillar. Up the wall along the edge into the crack and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
TlCHÁ CESTA
Through the crack and broken depression to the East wall. In the left part of the East… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Přes pupíček
From the window traverse right past the edge. Over the overhang into a depression to the… Rock Climbing
7
Varianta Maurerovo proroctví
Along the crack to the bolt. Via a crack and left to the 2nd bolt. Up to the ledges … Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Sokolí marš
From the E edge traverse right along the ledge. Up under the corner and over the overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Podlézavý komín
Via the chimney in the N corner up under a wedged block and by crawling under it to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
JV kout
Via the chimney to the ledge (knots) and along the double crack (knots) to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Vis maior
Prominent corner in the middle of the wall to the bolt. Along ledges diagonally right… Rock Climbing
7
Rychlý posel
From the left valley edge traverse right to the balcony to the 1st bolt. Lift over the… Rock Climbing
3
Vklíněný zvon
Via a bell-shaped chimney up into a cavity with wedged stones (knots) and over a wedged… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Západní spárokomín
Via a narrow chimney to a small balcony and an overhanging crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Lahůdkový sokolík
From the balcony up and via the inclined corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Dobrý den, kozy ven
Via the wall to the left of the edge over 3 bolts to a small balcony and directly to the… Rock Climbing
6
Sexualní harašení
Left of the "Plywood Dinosaur" route into a large depression. From there right to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Varianta It´s ok to be gay
Via the "Sexual Harassment" route to the bolt and from there diagonally left to the 2nd… Rock Climbing
7
Kyselina mléčná
Via the wall into the hole to the 1st bolt and further along the wall over flakes via the… Rock Climbing
4
Cesta na výsluní
Via corner holds through the middle of the SW face, then through the depression to below… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Údolní pařba
Middle of the narrow valley wall to the 1st bolt, directly over the overhang to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Cesta za oblohou
Middle of the SW face into a horizontal depression, right to the crack and along it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Jihozápadní spára
Via a crack to the right of NC up to the steps and NC to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Údolní pařba - originál variant
From the 3rd bolt diagonally left to the edge and along it. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay