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Climbing at Northern areas

4849 routes
12 areas
1–12 grades

The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.

The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.

Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

6
Kostka
From the 1st ring, continue along the edge (without branching into the crack). Rock Climbing
7-/7
Kostka
Up the center of the overhanging south face (point to the left) to the 1st ring. Up the… Rock Climbing
3
Jeskyně
From the left side of the attached block through a narrow chimney to the summit (and then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Jeskyně
Along the overhanging edge from the small wall in the cave to the 1st ring, up the wall… Rock Climbing
5
Jeskyně
From the right side of the attached block briefly through the chimney, higher up via a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9
Jeskyně
Through the middle of the left valley wall (from the grassy terrace) up the wall over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Jeskyně
Along the left edge of the right valley wall higher up along the edge over the 1st ring… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Jeskyně
To the left of the route "Above the Tramp Settlement" via an overhang and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
6-
Jeskyně
Through the middle of the left valley wall from the block to the ring. Right to the edge… Rock Climbing
7
Jeskyně
From the cave up the slabby wall along the edge and via a slanting chimney into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
6
Jeskyně
From the left valley edge from the right up the wall into the small pillar/arete and… Rock Climbing
7
Jeskyně
From the cave via the left overhanging corner crack, higher diagonally right into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Overhang
6
Jeskyně
From the cave through a system of cracks and chimneys under the roof. Out through the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Overhang
8
Jeskyně
From the small courtyard over the overhang, a small pillar/arete and up the wall into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
5
Jeskyně
From the passage through a system of chimneys over terraces under the overhang. Overhang,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Bukanýr
From the left over the overhang to the NW edge and along it left to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Bukanýr
Small overhang and up the wall along the right valley edge directly over the 1st ring to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Monument
Up the wall over the ring to the summit (without using the chimney). Rock Climbing
7
Jezevec
From the left, along the left valley overhanging edge, diagonally right into the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Jezevec
Up the wall below the rappel station directly to the ring. From the right above it and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Jezevec
Start like LPK variant, then directly over the overhang to the bolt. From the right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Kozel
In the right part of the plateau wall from the block slightly right to the ring, right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Březová věž
From the chipped block on the E edge (bolt) with a lift/mantle to the sloping balcony.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Březová věž
Via a crack right of NC. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Březová věž
Via a crack left of the 'Kozákov Chimney' to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Březová věž
Start via the S edge, left into the wall, up that directly to the ring of route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Březová věž
From NE via a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Březová věž
Via a fissure in the NE wall to the edge and up that over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Březová věž
Via a crack to the end to the ring and (by standing/stance) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Březová věž
Up the left valley edge over the 1st ring to the ring of the route 'Lunchtime'. Up that… Fixed belay

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