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Climbing at Northern areas

4849 routes
12 areas
1–12 grades

The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.

The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.

Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

8
Ocún
Up the right side of the plateau wall over a bolt hanger to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Březová věž
Via a chimney from SW to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Velbloud
Through the middle of the right valley wall onto the terrace and via the route 'Before… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Velbloud
From the upper side along the ledges onto the balcony. Along the edge over the ring to… Rock Climbing
7
Velbloud
Along the edge over the ring onto the lower rock section. Via the small wall over the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Velbloud
Along the right upper edge briefly over the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Valcha
Via the small gully to the ring and by pulling up to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Tichá stěna
In the upper wall, right of the chimney, directly through the overhanging wall into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
6
Tichá stěna
Through the middle of the wall, right of the 'Septic Boys' route, directly to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Tichá stěna
In the middle of the valley wall directly over the ledge to the ring. Slightly right and… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Tichá stěna
From the right along the right upper edge via the overhang to the ring, and along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Tichá stěna
With a wide stemming and traverse into the wall to the ring. Along the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Tichá stěna
In the left upper wall, right of the crack, along the wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Tichá stěna
Along the crack onto the balcony. Through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Tichá stěna
In the left part of the overhanging valley wall over the 1st ring to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing
6-
Tichá stěna
Along the valley edge onto the terrace from the stemming on the left below the overhang,… Rock Climbing
4
Špičák
Along the wall onto the ledge (or by stemming) to the ring. Along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
12
Poklop
Through the middle of the wall over the ledge to the bolt. From the right onto the second… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Poklop
Through the middle of the wall to the ring, right to the edge, and via it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Plešoun
Through the chimney between Zrzoun and Plešoun into the gully and via it. Rock Climbing
5
Plešoun
In the right part of the valley wall directly over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Plešoun
Through the crack to the ring on the left to the edge and via it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Péro
Middle of the valley wall via the ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Péro
Along the valley edge via the ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Pepík
From the right, traverse into a sloping 'hoof' and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Pepík
Middle of the wall from the small valley directly into a sloping corner (gully), along it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Pepík
From the plateau side to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Pepík
From the small valley via a chimney, higher up traverse right into a sloping gully, along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Pepík
Via the Léta NW small wall, left or right with a dynamic move to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Maska
Right of the corner crack, via a fissure and a dynamic move onto the ledge and from the… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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