The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.
The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.
Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.
Rules
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
- Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
- Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
- Abseil only from fixed anchors.
- Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
- Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
- First ascents usually need prior approval.
On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.
Klokočské skály Zbirohy Betlémské skály Suché skály Panteon Drábovna Skály na Sokolu - Kalich Měsíční údolí pod Kozákovem (Proskalí) Frýdštejn Skály na Sokolu - Chléviště Koberovy Skály na Sokolu - Sokol
6
Cestou necestou
By wall to the inclined ledge. Along it left to the hole, traverse and by corner to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Přes balvan
By corner to the tree, right under the overhanging block, from the right over it to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Krátká
Through the center of the green slab in the W wall into the gutter and to the crown. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Prastará cesta
Start from the snack bar, onto the ledge and left behind the flake. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Zamotané nitě
Via the crack to the right of Pěkný dárek (Nice Gift). Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6-
Pěkný dárek
Left in front of the castle entrance gate, up the first edge over the overhang (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Stará cesta
Start from the snack bar, onto the ledge and right along the edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Hoffmanský kapky
Several meters up the crack of the “Muddy Corner” route, left into the crack in the V… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Tour de ski
The ascent leads from the north, through a very steep forest until the place where the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8
Pytel blech
From the beginning of the “Kiss of Death” crack traverse right and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Interviu
Up the overhanging wall over the ring (replaced by a bolt) to the ring of the “Bag of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Koprolálie
Start left of the "Interview" route directly up the wall over 4 bolts to the abseil ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Brtovina
Briefly up the corner, step left to the edge (ring), up the wall and along the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Silný kafe
Up the wall over two rings into the rim and over the steep step to the balcony. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Slabé kafe
Directly up the wall to the ring and upwards into the crack of the “Kiss of Death” route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Polární léto
Up the wall to the ring under the overhang. Over the overhang into the pillar and onto… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Jarmark
Up the wall to the ledge, right via the pillar to the next ledge. Via the crack, left, up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Cesta gondol
Up the wall to the ledge (protection), along the pillar to its end, right into a narrow… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Děs a hrůza
Up the wall to the ledge and via the pillar to the ring. Up the wall to the next ledge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7
Velikonoční spára
Via a wide crack, higher up by a chimney narrowing again into a crack (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2
Sahara
Up the loose wall to the ledge. Through the recess into the crack, along it to the next… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kamínovy narozeniny
Up the wall to the ledge, from the right to the rim (ring). Directly up the wall into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Ruleta - Kabaretní varianta
Directly up the overhanging wall to the ledge into the “Roulette” route. (loose) Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Křížová cesta
Up the wall left to the edge, along it and via the pillar to a large ledge. Right and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Propast volá propast
Between the Chimney's Birthday and Easter Crack routes, along the edge over a bolt to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Vyšší moc
Directly up the wall to the bolt and with the edge into the Brtovina route, then along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Ruleta
By the route “Right Knichal's Crack” to the 1st ledge, then left along it and via a… Rock Climbing Textile belay