The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.
The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.
Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.
Rules
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
- Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
- Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
- Abseil only from fixed anchors.
- Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
- Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
- First ascents usually need prior approval.
On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.
Klokočské skály Zbirohy Betlémské skály Suché skály Panteon Drábovna Skály na Sokolu - Kalich Měsíční údolí pod Kozákovem (Proskalí) Frýdštejn Skály na Sokolu - Chléviště Koberovy Skály na Sokolu - Sokol
7/7+
El Paso
To the right of the Polar Summer route along the edge over 5 bolts (5th bolt added later)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Odřená
From the courtyard via a narrow crack directly below the summit wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Jižní stěna levá
First right, then diagonally left below the 'Sokolík'. Traverse left and then a dynamic… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Jižní spára
To the right of the 'Normal Route' up the crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
5+
Pro moji ženskou
Up the wall to the right of the right edge of the western chimney (ring) to the ledge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8/8+
Glllova rozcvička
The start is the same as the "Southeast Edge" route. Along the edge under the overhang,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Přímá jižní stěna
From the plateau below the summit wall, through the center of the wall over the overhang,… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Jihovýchodní hrana
Step onto the edge and follow it to the ring. Through the hollow or to the right behind… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7
Varianta - JV hrana
From the ring diagonally left along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Úvahy o trestu smrti
Via the CORNER ROUTE under the overhang (slings) directly over the overhang (3rd ring of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Koutová cesta
Up the corner crack (piton) under the roof, traverse left to the edge and up the crack… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
7-/7
Logické vyústění (varianta)
Via the "Coup in a Banana Republic" route to the spike in the small corner (sling).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8
Převislá varianta
Via the 'Corner Route' under the roof, traverse left behind the edge and up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Přímá severní cesta
To the left of the carved slab in the center of the wall, up the crack over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Převrat v banánové republice
Via the "DIRECT NORTH FACE" route to the ledge by the larch. Up the wall to the left of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Obřady jara
Along the NW edge (NORTHERN ROUTE) to a small balcony and along the edge over the ring to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Varianta 25 centimetrů
Along the sloping ledge to the right and up the wall directly to the ring of the Direct… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Severní cesta
Along the NW edge to the middle of the tower (belay), diagonally down left to the crack… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Normální cesta
From the N face and chimney or chimney from W to the plateau below the summit wall. Left… Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
?
Pracovní cesta
From the plateau below the S face, turn left onto the edge and follow it to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
SV spára
Via an overgrown small wall under a small crack and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Hranka
From the NE corner left to a grassy ledge, diagonally left along grassy ledges and a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Velký komín
Via the chimney in the left part of the SE face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Jarní rozlézání
In the right part of the SE face via a depression with a corner up to below the crack… Rock Climbing
6-
Brusinková
From NE over the overhang to the balcony and higher via the corner to the bolt. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Přímá varianta cesty Cik cak
Via the overhang to the bolt and corner. Continue via the Zigzag route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Korejský koutek
Via the S corner (slings) under the overhang (knot) and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Cik cak
To the right along the wall from the "Korean Corner" under the overhang (sling). Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay