The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.
The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.
Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.
Rules
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
- Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
- Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
- Abseil only from fixed anchors.
- Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
- Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
- First ascents usually need prior approval.
On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.
Klokočské skály Zbirohy Betlémské skály Suché skály Panteon Drábovna Skály na Sokolu - Kalich Měsíční údolí pod Kozákovem (Proskalí) Frýdštejn Skály na Sokolu - Chléviště Koberovy Skály na Sokolu - Sokol
3
Komín rudých slídilů
In the left corner of the main pillar through the corner crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Levý péro
In the right part of the wall from the terrace through a narrow chimney, higher up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Komín indiánských sester
Left of the left corner of the main pillar through the chimney and over the block to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Rádio Jerevan
In the left part of the wall along the holes diagonally right and up to the ring.… Rock Climbing
7
Tichá dohoda
Wall over holes (piton) to the ledge to the ring. Wall with pitons to the 2nd ring. Up… Rock Climbing
6
Buddhovy oči
Traverse left to the ring. Via a small wall slightly from the left into a sloping small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-
Strážnické brambůrky
In the left part of the right wall (from the grassy terrace) up the wall to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Válka fetů
Through the middle of the pillar to the right of the roof, directly to the 1st and 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Nech ho smrdět
From the ledge on the left side of the roof via an overhang and cracks to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Odérek
In the left side wall (from the roof, left behind the edge) via a system of overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Potní lázeň
From the grassy plateau in the middle of the wall via a crack, higher up the chimney over… Rock Climbing Textile belay Overhang
7-
No co čumíš!
From the terrace in the right wall diagonally right to the 1st ring. Right and directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kašpárkobraní
From the terrace in the right part of the wall via a crack and the wall in the middle… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Hovno, hovno, zlatá rybko
(In the left part of the right valley wall) From the grassy terrace via the ribbed wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
10
Hejnolejn
From the cave, through a crack in the roof and along it over the roof into a crack and… Rock Climbing
6-
Byl to Šejn - varianta Pěnolejn
Right of the cave under the roof, through the middle of the pillar to the ring. Under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Byl to Šejn
From the cave, right under the roof, through it to the 1st ring. Along the roof in the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Radní padni
Right of Requiem via the wall and a crack to the 1st ring. Right to the edge, up it and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6
Rekviem (Smuteční)
From the fore-rock in the right part of the wall via a crack (knots) over a ring to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6
Nástupová varianta
Via a small corner along the West edge to the ledge, left into a crack and through it… Rock Climbing
10
Hóóódná hólčička
Left of the left upper edge via a corner and the wall to the 1st ring. Via the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Už konec blbýho kecání
Along the right valley edge over the 1st ring to the ledge. From there, via the wall from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7
Severozápadní levá spára
Through the middle of the NW wall via a chimney and higher via a crack to the ledge. Over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
8-/8
Keci samý keci
Through the middle of the upper wall to the 1st ring. Diagonally right to the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Normální cesta
From the fore-rock in the left part of the wall via a crack to the ring, then via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7
Varianta pro Mílu
From the fore-rock, traverse the upper wall to the 1st ring of the Civil Route. Rock Climbing
7
Civilní cesta
Through the middle of the NW wall via a chimney and higher via a crack to the ledge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
8/8+
Babo raď
Directly to the ring of the Ascent Variant, up and further right into the middle of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
9
Jé to nemám, to si vezmu
From the bivouac, through the left ceiling crack and higher up an overhanging crack to… Rock Climbing