The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.
The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.
Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.
Rules
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
- Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
- Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
- Abseil only from fixed anchors.
- Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
- Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
- First ascents usually need prior approval.
On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.
Klokočské skály Zbirohy Betlémské skály Suché skály Panteon Drábovna Skály na Sokolu - Kalich Měsíční údolí pod Kozákovem (Proskalí) Frýdštejn Skály na Sokolu - Chléviště Koberovy Skály na Sokolu - Sokol
9
Poslední Homykán
In the middle of the left valley wall, up the wall into the pillar to the 1st bolt. Along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Varianta Vyliž Brus
Along the route "Lick the Grindstone" to the bolt. Then diagonally left and directly up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Pojď dolů, debile!
Up the center of the wall to the 1st bolt. Traverse right and directly up the wall into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Nevim fakale
Along the left valley edge of the left valley wall, via cracks and pillars to the bolt,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Nedělej vlny
Directly up the wall (without stemming) to the 1st bolt and along the small crack (sling,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Mrazení v zádech
From the shelf along the crack (slings) to the bolt. To the right onto the edge and up… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Dolf Migrén
Like a path, Jean Claude Van Damme up to the first bolt. To the left to the pillar, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Bledé tváře
To the right of the V-edge, briefly through the corner and traverse left onto the shelf… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Tři Švédky v Tyrolích
Overhang (ring) into a crack and through it over the 2nd ring to a ledge. Through another… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Odyssea
Through a crack to the right of the bivouac (knots) into a chimney and through it over a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7/7+
Barbar onan
In the right part of the valley wall through a small crack and up the wall along it to… Rock Climbing
6-
Petrolejový princ
Up the wall along the honeycomb formations to the ring. From the right beyond the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Varianta Skalní maturita
Along the route "Better late than never" to the balcony. In the corner, hoist up into the… Rock Climbing
9
Tak si rozsviť
From the right part of the bivouac, over an overhang, up a wall and through a crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Lepší pozdě, nežli vůbec
Through a corner to a ledge and through another corner over a bolt to a balcony (belay).… Rock Climbing
6
Worry gets you nowhere
Through a corner to the balcony and along it to the right to the ring. Hoist up to a… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Krásně schnilý dásně
From the grassy terrace, to the left of the crack, through the middle of the smooth wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pod lampou je tma
Up the wall into an overhanging diagonal crack, through it to the end and to the right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8-/8
Gravitace je svině
In the middle of the large pillar, up the wall and a sloping chimney to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Z kotle pára stoupá
Up the wall to the right of the "Brodská cesta" over 2 rings to the shelf. To the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Páru tam hoď
Approach as "Severovýchodní cesta" (Northeast Route) into the notch and directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Brodská cesta
Through a crack in the left part of the NE wall over a small cave to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Čertovskej protlak
Through the center of the pillar under the rappel point over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Severovýchodní cesta
In the right part of the NE wall into a crescent-shaped notch, through it traverse right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Smažení dršek
Along the valley route to the 1st ring. Up the wall diagonally left and up to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Poslední propadne peklu
In the narrow valley wall (under Džbán) up the wall to the left of the small crack,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Údolní cesta
Through the center of the valley wall to the ring. From there slightly to the right and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Ať žije ďábel
In the middle of the left valley wall, through a corner, along a small crack and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay