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Climbing at Northern areas

4849 routes
12 areas
1–12 grades

The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.

The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.

Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

5
Palice
From the plateau side, traverse along the ledge into the valley wall to the ring. Over… Rock Climbing
5
Palice
Along the SW edge directly to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Palice
From the tourist path, traverse to the small tower. Up it to the ledge and a diagonal… Rock Climbing
5
Palice
Along the left edge of the West wall. Rock Climbing
5
Orloj
Hand crack. Rock Climbing
7
Orloj
Briefly to the ledge, then left to the small tower and up it to the ring. Traverse left… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Oáza
In the middle of the right side wall, left series of features to the 1st ring. To the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Oáza
In the middle of the right side wall, right series of features and left to the 1st ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Oáza
In the middle of the valley wall, directly up and higher right to the 1st ring of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Oáza
From the right into the crack and up it to the balcony to the ring. Up the wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Oáza
Up the corner, higher along the crack (loops) to the ledge and an overhanging crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Oáza
Up the valley wall diagonally right to the ring and up a small wall with bulges to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Oáza
In the right part of the valley wall, a short overhanging corner under the roof. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Oáza
Along the left valley edge, up the wall directly to the ring. Up the wall directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Neznámá
Along the edge over 2nd rings into the crack. Rock Climbing
7
Neznámá
From the passage through a small crack and further with the help of a crack to the right … Rock Climbing
3
Neptun
Crack (knots) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Neptun
Hand crack (knots) over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Neptun
A short chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Mraveneček
In the middle of the plateau wall directly and on the ledge from the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Mraveneček
Over the overhang (hourglass) and from the left to the ring. Straight up and right to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Mraveneček
Over 2 overhangs to the ring, using the edge up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Mraveneček
Rock Climbing
3
Mraveneček
In the right part of the valley wall to the ledge (hourglass). Traverse left (spike) and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mraveneček
In the left part of the valley wall directly to the ledge, via a small chimney into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Mraveneček
Up the small wall from the plateau side. Rock Climbing
8
Mlok
Up the rusty wall into the small chimney (1st ring), diagonally left to the ledge and to… Rock Climbing
2
Mlok
Via the right crack (knots) to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Mlok
Up the wall from the right to the 1st ring and via the crack (knots) to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing
8
Mlok
Along the right edge directly over the ring into the ledge (sling) and further to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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