The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.
The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.
Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.
Rules
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
- Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
- Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
- Abseil only from fixed anchors.
- Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
- Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
- First ascents usually need prior approval.
On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.
Klokočské skály Zbirohy Betlémské skály Suché skály Panteon Drábovna Skály na Sokolu - Kalich Měsíční údolí pod Kozákovem (Proskalí) Frýdštejn Skály na Sokolu - Chléviště Koberovy Skály na Sokolu - Sokol
6
Malorohozecká
Via a small wall over the ring into a hole (hourglass) to the right past the edge and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ztepilá Pepina
By wall above the bivouac briefly upwards, traverse right (knot) to the bolt edge. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Magnetický komín
Over an overhang and via a small corner to the ring. Via a small wall diagonally right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Samochodky
In the left part of the wall over a bolt into holes and to the ring. By wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Lokální anestezie
By wall over the ring (installed additionally) to the sub-summit balcony to the rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Cesta od sudu
At the left edge along a small crack (sling) and further along the edge into a hole to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Cesta k sudu
Along the fissure in the left part of the wall to the ring. Slightly left into a hole and… Rock Climbing
6
Instruktorská
To the right of the route 'Cesta k sudu' directly to the 1st ring. Up to the 2nd ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Šlupkolehy
Up the right valley overhanging edge over the 1st ring to the ledge to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Šunkokleky
Via crack or fissure to the 1st ring of the 'Little Prince' route. To the right of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hvězdý prach
Completely in the right part of the side wall via a fissure to the end to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Machr šňůra
In the middle of the right side wall via a diagonal wider crack to a grassy ledge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Čaroděj ze země koz
In the left side wall (right of the corner) via a flake to the 1st ring. By wall and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Nástupová varianta
To the 1st ring via the crack in the corner. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Malý princ
By wall over a hole and via a small crack to the 1st ring. To the left and higher into a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Moc se neraduj
To the left of the left valley edge from the overhang into the wall, diagonally right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Země lidí
Via a small wall and along the flake (ring) into the crack and onto the balcony to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Pá pá raci
In the right part of the side wall directly to the 1st ring. By wall and crack to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Fó papá
Same as the Bye bye crayfish route to the 2nd ring. Further up the slab to the left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Kurýr na jih
Via the corner crack to the platform and to the right via another crack (knots) to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Na větvi
Through the center of the overhanging wall over 2 rings to the 3rd ring of the Mute Face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Cililink
Over the overhang to the 1st ring. Slightly from the left and up the wall below the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Drsoň
Up the wall and overhang to the 1st ring. Up the wall and over the overhang to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Němá tvář
Overhanging band of honeycomb over 2 rings. Diagonally left over the 3rd and 4th rings… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Varianta Jasoň
From the 2nd ring of the Drsoň route diagonally left up the wall behind the edge, further… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Nesmrtelná guma
In the middle of the valley wall via the blunt edge to the 1st and 2nd rings. Right and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Daleké rozhledy
Along the edge and wall near the edge to the 1st ring. Directly to the ledge and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
In nature
Center of the wall to the ring (unprotected). Through the crack (slings) to the end and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Jedlej bukovej kouř
Via the IMMORTAL GUM route to the 2nd ring. Further slightly to the right above the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1