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Climbing at Northern areas

4849 routes
12 areas
1–12 grades

The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.

The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.

Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Klokočské skály 1298 routes Zbirohy 907 routes Betlémské skály 781 routes Suché skály 392 routes Panteon 303 routes Drábovna 303 routes Skály na Sokolu - Kalich 262 routes Měsíční údolí pod Kozákovem (Proskalí) 242 routes Frýdštejn 164 routes Skály na Sokolu - Chléviště 141 routes Koberovy 41 routes Skály na Sokolu - Sokol 15 routes
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2
Cimrman
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Buben
Overhanging corner crack to the ring. Left over the overhang into a wide crack and via it… Rock Climbing
3
Belveder
Through a narrow chimney over ledges. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Belveder
From the balcony left to the wide crack and up to its end. Traverse right to the gully… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Belveder
Via the crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Belveder
Up the prominent corner to the pine tree. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Aprílová
Via the wide crack from the plateau side to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Aprílová
Via the gully below the rappel point to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Aprílová
From the W edge traverse over the holes to the ring. Diagonally right along the ledge to… Rock Climbing
8
Aprílová
On the V. wall along the crack (knot) to the ring and higher to the left to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Aprílová
Through a small corner to the birch tree and to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Aprílová
Through the chimney in the center of the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Aprílová
Up the blunt corner to the ring and from the ring to the rounded top. Rock Climbing
2
Aprílová
From the uphill side along the left edge to the ledge, traverse left into the corner and… Rock Climbing
4
Hlavní věž - severní stěny
Up the S (South) wall over the steps, higher diagonally left into the crack and up it to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Hlavní věž - severní stěny
In the W (West) wall diagonally left to the edge and along it. Rock Climbing
5
Hlavní věž - severní stěny
Along the overhanging corner 5 m up and diagonally left to the 1st ring; also directly up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Hlavní věž - severní stěny
From the 2nd ring up the overhanging wall and left up a short chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
7
Hlavní věž - severní stěny
In the fall line of the central chimney up a small wall into a corner and further (pitons… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Hlavní věž - severní stěny
From the terrace between the central and left chimneys up the wall along the crack below… Rock Climbing
6-
Hlavní věž - severní stěny
Up the wall to the small pillar (rivet) and diagonally right to the ledge halfway up the… Rock Climbing
5
Hlavní věž - severní stěny
From the corner below the abseil point diagonally upwards into a horizontal notch,… Rock Climbing
3
Hlavní věž - severní stěny
Through the recess via steps, or from the left via the terrace and right into the corner… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hlavní věž - severní stěny
Up the crack to the horizontal crack (loop), traverse over 2 pitons to the NE edge of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Hlavní věž - severní stěny
Up the crack of Božský traverz (Divine Traverse) to the saddle and via the SE edge to the… Rock Climbing
6
Hlavní věž - jižní předskalí
Up the corner under the overhang, over it and along the crack to a overgrown plateau.… Rock Climbing
7
Hlavní věž - jižní předskalí
Up the crack to the ring and up the wall. Rock Climbing
6
Hlavní věž - jižní předskalí
Up the crack over the overhang and further to the ring. Through the crack to the end,… Rock Climbing
6
Hlavní věž - jižní předskalí
Up the crack and slab to the ring, over the overhang to the left to the pine tree and up… Rock Climbing
7
Hlavní věž - jižní předskalí
Up a small crack and wall (or diagonally from left) under the overhang, over it along the… Rock Climbing

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