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Climbing at Northern areas

4849 routes
12 areas
1–12 grades

The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.

The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.

Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

9
Kolonáda
Up the wall directly to the ring. Directly onto the ledge, to the 2nd ring of the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Kolonáda
Via the route "Na václavským Václaváku" to the 1st ring. Up the wall from the left and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Klenba
In the right part of the valley wall, from the ledge upwards to the 1st ring and then to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Kančí stěny
In the left side wall, via the crack-chimney to the detached block. Diagonally right up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7/7+
Bota
From the valley along the edge into the hole, then left to a ring. Further diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8
Bota
Through the middle of the south wall over the ring upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Bota
Below the abseil traverse right and over the ring upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9
Bota
From the ring of the route "Answer to the question…" upwards to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Bota
Along the left edge from the abseil over the ring upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Benjamínek
Up the wall below the rappel over the ring to the summit Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Benjamínek
In the left part of the plateau wall via an overhanging wall to the saddle. By the Normal… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Zmijovka
Through the middle of the southern slab (2 rings) to the summit.
6
Zmijovka
From the start of the route "Eyes Full of Tears" briefly straight, higher up under the…
6
Zmijovka
Through the left part of the southern slab (ring) to the summit.
2
Věžička u Máni
Along the eastern edge to the slab. At its lower edge, traverse right to the N edge and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2
Věžička u Máni
Along the eastern edge into the slab and through the middle of the slab to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2
Věžička u Máni
From the south, through the right part of the S wall to the large hourglass and along the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Přeskakové věže
From the north (from the corridor between the North Tower and the Jumping Towers) along… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Přeskakové věže
From the block, ascend the right part of the friable W wall to the ring. Via the gully… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Přeskakové věže
Via a crack from the S branch of the inner chimney to the ledge and a traverse/overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Přeskakové věže
Via the chimney to the N or E summit. With a very wide spread (!!!), an overhang, and the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Přeskakové věže
From NW via the crack to the N summit. Traverse into the Inner Chimney and up it to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Přeskakové věže
From the branching of the inner chimney (from NE) via the chimney to the terrace. About 4… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Přeskakové věže
From the south (left of the south crack) up the friable wall along the fissure to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Drban
Approach from the left onto the bench and up the wall through holes, higher up diagonally…
8+/9-
Výr
To the right of the left valley edge, directly up the overhanging wall into the ledge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Odeon
Along the ledge via a notch to the 1st ring and further via an arête over 2 rings to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Odeon
To the right of the valley edge to the ledge. Directly up the wall to the 1st ring. From… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7
Hajník
In the right part of the upper wall to the ring, right to the edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Hajník
Up the wall to the ring and by the right edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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