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Climbing at Northern areas

4849 routes
12 areas
1–12 grades

The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.

The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.

Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

6
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
From the saddle in the left part of the wall along the crack and via the wall to the fore… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Nosatá věž
Via the route "Bořík's Troubles" over the pitons up to below the overhang (slings).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Startovní pilíř
Through the crack (slings), then slightly left to the bolt hanger (bh) of Cesta Kolem … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Ostrá věžička
Start at the base of the left edge of Ostrá věžička (Sharp Turret). Over the spikes along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7
Amerika (Fakir)
Below the abseil obliquely up the wall over the 1st bolt hanger to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Vrchol s křížem
In the north face, about 4m to the right of the left corner, up the slab under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Malý Panteon - jižní stěna
To the right of the Myšákova pětadvacítka route along the edge over 4 rings (2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8/8+
Zlaté písky
Middle of the right side wall overhanging to the 1st ring. From the left to the blunt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Wounded knee
In the right part of the NE wall, a high step to the ring. High step into a slanted wide… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Wounded knee
Inclined SW slab over the ring to the summit Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Wounded knee
In the left part of the NE wall and higher up a crack (ring) to the summit (abseil). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Šachovnice
Via the route "Lady on J 13" up to the ledge to the hourglass/belay point. Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Šachovnice
From the valley from the left into the crack, up it, higher right into the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Šachovnice
Right above the valley edge over 2 rings (and in the ledge: hourglass/belay point) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Stinné masivy
Via the blunt edge to the ring. Via the falcon's notch and small wall to the balcony. Via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Stinné masivy
Via the edge to the ring and obliquely left to the 2nd ring. Along the crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Stinné masivy
Via the wall into a wide crack and along it to the balcony. Via the chimney to the summit… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Měsíční stěna
In the right part of the right wall, ascend the wall to the ledge and a wide crack over… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
?
Měsíční stěna
In the middle of the right wall by a small pinnacle to the end to the 1st bolt. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Měsíční stěna
By the small pinnacle of route "Mojžíšovo sbírka dívčíčedek" (Moses' collection of little… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Měsíční stěna
In the left part of the overhangs of the right wall along the crack to a ledge by a left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Masivy pod lavičkou
In the left part of the right wall, up the wall to below the overhang, right to the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8
Masivy pod lavičkou
By edge via three bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Masivy pod lavičkou
In the left part of the wall, up the wall and through depressions into the cave. From the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Království
In the middle of the central middle wall, up the wall to the laid-back edge to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kolonáda
Via the route ".. .. . " (from Pepis) to the 1st ring. Above it, left onto the ledge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kolonáda
To the 2nd ring of the route "V houfu jsem se stratil" (I got lost in the crowd) over a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kolonáda
Via the route "V houfu jsem se stratil" to the 2nd ring. Up the wall to the right via a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Kolonáda
Via the route "Nádo kolo" up to above the 2nd ring to the beginning of the circle of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kolonáda
Left of the corner up the overhanging wall to the 1st ring. Into the notch, through it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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