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Climbing at Northern areas

4849 routes
12 areas
1–12 grades

The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.

The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.

Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

7-/7
Vlajková věž
Up the overhanging edge to the 2nd ring and diagonally left up the wall to the 3rd ring … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vlčí věž
From the upland side, from the blocks, climb the edge to the ring. Up the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Stará výcviková stěna
To the left of the chimney between the massif and Výr, up the wall over 4 rings to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Stará výcviková stěna
Through the corner and fissure of the Night Ghost route all the way to the ledge, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Rozpůlená věž
In the right part of the valley wall, briefly via the corner crack and traverse left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Čihulova věž
Up the corner for several meters and step right to the small edge. Up the small wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Rubikon
Step onto the edge of the bh. and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Vyhlídka
From the passage between Vyhlídka and Výří masiv. Up the wall to the balcony to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Strážní věž
Route for practicing technical climbing Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +1
8
Věž Milana Černého
Up the slab to the 1st ring, up and left into the gully, to the ledge, below the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Věž Milana Černého
From the 2nd ring directly up the right corner to the ledge and up the overhanging wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
9
Výr
In the left valley wall, to the right of the chimney, up the wall over three rings,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Výr
To the right in the valley, via the edge, wall and edge over 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Stará výcviková stěna
In the middle of the wall, through the corner of the Corner Crack route to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Via the pillar between the chimney with wedged boulders and Dušička's right, over a bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Via the Pilíř route, i.e., an overhanging crack and diagonally right (piton), higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
To the right of "Přehnané" (Exaggerated) up the wall and through the crack (loops)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Poslední
In the middle of the valley wall, via small buttresses to the first ring, up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Hlavní věž - severní stěny
To the 1st piton of the Božský traverz (Divine Traverse) path and upwards to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Hlavní věž - severní stěny
From the corner below the abseil point (bolt) diagonally upwards to the 1st ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Pankáč Hranacír
Along the valley edge over the ring to the balcony (Bh) and by a swing-up to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Plivník
Through the middle of the valley wall. From the terrace straight up the wall over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Plivník
From the left side, up the wall through a hole to the bolt, via the small buttress to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Osmivěží
In the left part of the plateau wall from the ledge directly to 1st ring. Diagonally left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Odeon
Via the route "E lucevan la stelle", to the 1st ring, then up the wall directly over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Risák
In the left part of the wall, small ledges to the ring, up the wall slightly from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zdenčina skála
Along the left valley edge diagonally right into the ledge. Through the crack over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Osmivěží
In the right side valley wall via a slanted overhanging corner over the 1st ring into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zbabělec
In the right side wall from the ledge to the left (i.e. same as the Valley route) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Koloběžka
From the right above the overhang and along the crack over the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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