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Climbing at Northern areas

4849 routes
12 areas
1–12 grades

The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.

The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.

Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

6
Belvedér - jižní stěna
By route "Saturday Afternoon" to the level of the roof-like overhang, left under it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Startovní pilíř
Along the valley edge of the pillar (BH) to the top to the abseil ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Bílá věž
Via route No. 1 to a ring. From there, to the right directly up the wall (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Alabastrová věž
Start between the Alabaster Wall and SE edge routes. Several meters up and diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Průlezová věž
Right of the route "Diagonal Crack" up the small wall along the holes (bolt) into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Kotrmelec
Up the right side wall directly to the edge to the ring and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vyhlídka, kde domov můj
Via the 'Boryš knows' route over rocks to the 1st ring, then further left onto a ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hospodské masivy
Over the overhang and left to the crack. Up it (ring) to the end. Using holes to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Borový masiv
In the left part of the S wall into holes (bolt) and to the right onto a ledge and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zimní věž (Samaritánka)
Along the NW wall left over the ring to the bench and via the overhanging crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kokudžin
From the plateau side, under the rappel, with a spread to the 1st ring. To the left, up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Vračičínek
Definitely via the slab and an overflow into the overhanging wall to the start of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Nádvorní
Through a wide chimney to the ring and a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Between the paths "Stoperová válka" (Stopper War) and "Polední spára" (Midday Crack)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Loupežnická věž
In the left part of the S wall up holes to the ring. Left behind the edge into a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Bílá skála
From the valley, via a small crack to the block. Briefly through the corner crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Houpací kůň
Up the wall (knots) into the ledge and right in it (ring). Over the holes to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Džbánek
Along the edge over the ring to a ledge with small hourglass features and then a swing up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Bydlo (for rest)
In the right part of the NW wall, through a hawk-like notch to a ledge and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Souhvězdí žab
From the passage, freely to the plateau. Via the wall through holes to the ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Poklop
Traverse into the right part of the wall (ring) and up it to the forepeak. By the Old… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Plochý kámen
Up the small wall left of "Janička's Route" via a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Sokolík (Hodánka)
From NW, freely to the fore-summit. Overhang from the right over 1st Ring. Left to the…
6
Helmy
Over the transfer from 'Bonze Naprášila' to the edge to the ring. Along the edge and up… Fixed belay
7
Helmy
In the middle of the wall from the gorge via an oblique crack into a hole and then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Fuňas
From the valley via a chimney to the foreground rock face (hourglass features), traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Výří masivy
By straddling to the bolt crack and through it over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
První věž
Through the middle of the valley face to the ring below the overhang. Over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
9
Šachovnice
Via the "Small Chess Move" route to the ring. Then directly by wall over another 1st ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
První věž
Through the recess and along the crack (slings) to the 1st ring. Through the middle of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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