The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.
The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.
Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.
Rules
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
- Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
- Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
- Abseil only from fixed anchors.
- Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
- Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
- First ascents usually need prior approval.
On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.
Klokočské skály Zbirohy Betlémské skály Suché skály Panteon Drábovna Skály na Sokolu - Kalich Měsíční údolí pod Kozákovem (Proskalí) Frýdštejn Skály na Sokolu - Chléviště Koberovy Skály na Sokolu - Sokol
6-
Pěkná hrana -varianta Pro měkké
From Krikava traverse to the ring and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Pěkná hrana
From the lowest point of the left valley edge over the ring (belay at the beginning of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Dlouhodobá kratochvíle
Up the wall to the ledge of the right edge of the chimney and to the ring. Along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Irata
Left of the "Good Morning" route, up the center of the pillar over 4 bolt hangers below… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Štíhlá linie
To the right of the NW edge in the middle of the W face directly to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Schody
Through the middle of the wall to the ledge, up the wall and the small pillar below the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Převislá hrana
Up the overhanging SE edge past 4 rings to a ledge. Diagonally left over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
7-/7
Zlaté časy
Via the Karamora route to the 1st piton, from there left to the bolt, then up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
9
Eldorádo
Via the crack to the 1st ring. Slightly right upwards to the 2nd ring, left up the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Vzpomínka na Řepana
To the flake and diagonally left to the 1st ring. Up and right to the 2nd ring. Into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Jízda králů
Up the wall directly to the 1st ring and directly to the 2nd ring of the route "Memory of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Poslední slanění
Up the small wall and edge to the highest point of the fore-rock and a step right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Sedlácká
Non-sport first ascent. Up the wall over two rings to the ledge to the 3rd ring of "Magic… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Hlavní pilíř Panteonu
Up an overhanging small crack and a 'sokolík' into a corner. Up the corner crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8
Jarnl třes
Up the "Pantheon Crack" to the ring. Up the wall along the edge of the slab past another… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Dítě představ
As "Satisfaction" to the 2nd ring, up to the ledge and left to the 3rd ring. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9+
Francouzský styl
Follow the "Hot Line" route over the 1st ring to the ledge. Up the smooth slab diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Horká čára
(Route in memory of František Bauer). Up the overhanging wall (1st ring) to the ledge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Noční variant
(Without aid, Luděk Šlechta Sr.) Under the small overhang to the left and up the chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Velké kyvadlo
Like "Drina" halfway up the crack, traverse left along the ledge to the ring, further… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+
Zadarmo na hrad
Approach two meters left of the "Pantheon Beauty" route. Directly up the wall over two… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Běž kudy chceš
From the grassy ledge, via a small pinnacle to the ring and then up the slab directly, or… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hrdě, tvrdě, mazaně
Between the West Route and the West Crack, via the wall over a ring to the fore-summit.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Levá ruka
Up the structured wall under the overhang (piton subsequently placed), via the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Doznění karnevalu
From the plateau up the wall along the sloping crack to the left to the edge and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Brokova cesta - veřejná var
From the lowest point of the pillar up the slab along a short sloping edge, higher up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
L. K. Radost
Up the wall over four ledges (3 BH) and further up the fall line another four BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Enigma
Up the center of the pillar over three BH to the ledge, slab to the left, from the 4th BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Středosvět
Up the indistinct pillar over four BH to the ledge, up the center of the slab over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1