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Climbing at Northern areas

4849 routes
12 areas
1–12 grades

The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.

The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.

Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

7-/7
Hlavní věž - severní stěny
Up the pillar over two BH to the ledge, slab over another three BH and a smooth pillar … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7/7+
Centrální stěna - střed stěny
Up the wall (bolt) under the overhang and over it (bolt) to the ledge. As "Secret Trip" … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Smrčinová věž
Up the center of the pillar past a bolt to a balcony. To the right (second bolt) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-/6
Masiv nad silnicí - jižní stěna
Via the pillar over the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8
Centrální stěna - střed stěny
Up the wall to the left of the edge under the small overhang (bolt added later), over it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Centrální stěna - II.liga
Directly up the wall to the 1st ring of the "Three Days of the Condor" route, further up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Centrální stěna - II.liga
From the 1st ring, one meter left and directly up the wall to the ledge to the ring under… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Nosatá věž
Start left of route No. 8 along a distinct white quartz vein to a piton in the corner … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Čihulova věž
Via the direct west route to the 1st ring, up the overhanging wall left to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Čihulova věž
Through the middle of the W wall (ring) into a horizontal crack (belay), directly up a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Čihulova věž
Up the crack to the right in the E wall for 3 m and right up the wall over the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
První pilíř
Through the overhanging, narrow SW face directly over the ring to the ledge and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
První věž
From the 2nd ring of "MTB" diagonally left along the edge to the ledge (spike). Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Bílá věž
Up the wall directly and slightly left to the ring of the "South Face" route, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Alabastrová věž
Up the wall to the left of the Left W crack (unprotected) to a ring and higher up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Alabastrová věž
To the right of route No. 1, a diagonal traverse into a recess in the center of the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Centrální stěna - II.liga
Up the wall to the ring, directly into the iron vein (bolt added later) over the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Centrální stěna - II.liga
Up the corner to the iron vein and a long traverse left within it (1st ring, bolt) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Centrální stěna - II.liga
From the 2nd ring from the left (sling) over the overhanging block and up the middle of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Masiv nad silnicí - jižní stěna
Via the slab and edge to the ring. Directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Kluziště
Up the overhanging small wall to the 1st ring. From the left above it, upwards into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kluziště
Up the small wall to the ledge and to the ring. From the right or left briefly upwards,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Centrální stěna - II.liga
From the 1st K Direct of the Traverse of Sighs, right to the 1st bolt, then directly over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Belvedér - jižní stěna
By chimney under the large overhang and left over the ring by a long traverse to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Šupináč
From the block into the cave, in it right to the overhanging crack. Through it over holes… Fixed belay
6
Puklá věž
From the valley, via the chimney to the fore-rock. Along the edge (bolt) to the ledge. In… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Hlavní věž - jižní stěny
Via the "Stoperová válka" (Stopper War) path over the 1st and 2nd ring up to the large… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Poklop
Right of the Sunday Crack from a stone up the overhanging wall via a bolt and a hole … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9
Belvedér - jižní stěna
Directly up the wall over BH to the 2nd ring of route "Sandpit" and slightly from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Belvedér - jižní stěna
Along the cut diagonally left up under the overhang (belay) and right to BH. Directly to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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