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Climbing at Northern areas

4849 routes
12 areas
1–12 grades

The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.

The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.

Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

10
Centrální stěna - I. liga
Up the pillar wall over four rings to the ramp. Directly to the 5th ring, then via a … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Malý Panteon - jižní stěna
Slab over three rings to the ledge. To the right over the fourth ring in the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Malý Panteon - jižní stěna
Via Omšelá to the ring. From the ring diagonally right on the slab to the exit of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Muchova věž
Up the wall under the roof directly to the edge to the 1st ring. Along the edge under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Sokol (Tyršova skála)
To the right of the memorial plaque, over the overhang (ring) diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
10
Sokolík (Hodánka)
To the left of the Normal route, up an overhanging wall (ring) directly to the 2nd ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Centrální stěna - II.liga
Directly up the wall (bolt added later) to the 1st ring of the "Traverse of Sighs". Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Homole
From the grassy ledge up the wall with the help of the edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Malý Panteon - jižní stěna
Green slab and bulge to the 1st ring. Up to the ledge and along it left to the start of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Klín
In the left part of the plateau wall over hourglasses and a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Nádvorní
From the plateau above the 'Wedge' wall, using the edge and along the edge over 1 bolt to… Fixed belay
7
Malý Panteon - jižní stěna
Left on the slab with underclings and a dynamic move to the 1st ring. Up (by building)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Centrální stěna - střed stěny
From the 1st ring of "Edge of the Corner" to the right and up the middle of the pillar… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Malý Panteon - severní stěna
Through a depression to a ledge (ring), chimney-like through a crack into the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Malý Panteon - severní stěna
Through the crack to the ring. By building into the chimney, it to the 2nd ring. Wall and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Malý Panteon - severní stěna
Up the wall over three rings to the ledge, right and up into the broken crack. Through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Malý Panteon - severní stěna
Through the chimney of the "Sad Reunion" route to the end, under the overhang to the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Malý Panteon - severní stěna
Like "Jiřina's Crack" about three meters and traverse in holes left to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Věž Ivy Kovářové
Freely onto the plateau below the south face of Mnich. Directly from the plateau over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vrchol s křížem
Like the "Black Magic" route to the small plateau under the crack, step into it, under… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Vrchol s křížem
To the left of the Beggar's Feast route, briefly up the small corner and left onto the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8
Černá vdova
Above the boulder, through the middle of the valley wall to the ring of the route "Fat… Fixed belay Danger
7-/7
Vrchol s křížem
Through the center of the N face under the small overhang into the small corner and up it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Vrchol s křížem
Up the wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Kluziště
Via a small crack to the ledge, step right behind the edge and upwards to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Vedlejší věž
Up the right valley edge and wall to the ring. Up the arched edge to a small balcony and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Panteonská jehla
From the path in front of the gate, over a step to an overgrown ledge, right into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Panteonská jehla
Start at the East corner at the castle entrance. Along the ledge to the right to the pine… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Panteonská jehla
Via a small corner to the ledge and up the wall to the ring. Via the 'sokolík' over a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Centrální stěna - levá část
Start on the "South Wind" route in the left part of the Central Wall up to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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