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Climbing at Northern areas

4849 routes
12 areas
1–12 grades

The Northern areas are, with almost 4,900 routes, the largest sub-area of Bohemian Paradise. They include Klokočské skály, Zbirohy, Betlémské skály, Suché skály, Panteon, Drábovna, Skály na Sokolu, Měsíční údolí below Kozákov and Frýdštejn. Suché skály are known for being climbable soon after rain, and Panteon offers near-sport routes and boulders.

The climbing is mostly traditional sandstone with fixed and textile protection, graded from 1 to 12.

Part of Bohemian Paradise, Northern areas has 4849 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger, Overhang.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

6
Banderas
In the left part of the overhang briefly over the overhang and up the wall to the blunt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
9
Banderas
In the left part of the wall from the cave, the ceiling to the crack/arete, through it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Banderas
In the right part of the wall, directly up the wall to the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd rings, left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Banderas
From the gully at the left pillar, up the wall to the rounded edge to the 1st ring. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Banderas
In the middle of the wall over a large overhang and up the wall along the blunt edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
John
To the right of the chimney and up the wall to the ring. Through the small chimney, a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Banderas
Through the corner crack into the small cave. Up to the ring and left into the gully. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Austrálie
Briefly through the chimney of the 'Rallye Dakar' route and traverse left under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Austrálie
Along the edge into the niche and left to the balcony. Up the wall (knot) to the ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Kružítko
From the valley via a crack or wall to the ledge under the ceiling. Then to the 1st ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Pérko
Middle of the valley wall via the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Arkády
Along a crack to a ledge. Up the wall over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Bazén
In the left part of the wall over the overhang into a hole, diagonally left to a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Bazén
At the very right part of the wall directly to the ring. Further directly to the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Království
Through the crack in the side wall to the balcony (boulder). Up the arête (slings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Antoušek
Through the center of the left side wall directly over the 1st ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-/7
Váleček dolní věž
Along the right valley edge over the ring onto the ledge and from the right to the summit… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Černá vdova
By opposition against the side into the wall to the ring. From the right through the wall… Fixed belay
6
Alma mater
From the right, along the edge, following a fragile crack to the 1st ring. Up and right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Alma mater
Following the Luftidlo route to below the overhang on the pillar. To the right over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Bidet
Along the left valley edge over 3k onwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Exulanti
Along the rounded edge over the 1st ring and up the wall to the summit. Fixed belay
7+/8-
Alma mater
In the left part of the wall (left of the corner crack) from a large hole, over an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8-/8
Alma mater
In the right part of the valley wall, along the blunt edge, up the wall, through a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Alma mater
Along the right edge of the massif, up the wall diagonally left to a ledge (belay).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Alma mater
Through the center of the wall, using the corner crack to the block. To the left, via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Alma mater
Completely in the left part of the massif, up the wall to the 1st ring, up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Afrika
To the left of the valley wall to the 1st ring. Right into the corner, up it and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Bidet
From the gully in the pillar along the crack and up the wall to the left towards the bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Pohan
In the left part of the valley wall from the stone up the wall into the holes and right… Fixed belay

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