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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

3
Opuštěná stěna
To the right of Zlatá c. wall to the right edge of Opuštěná stěna, then to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Opuštěná stěna
Through broken rock, cracks to the right to the summit. Without belay. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
6-
Opuštěná stěna
In the fall line of a distinctive yellow block in the middle of the wall, whose edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Opuštěná stěna
Start approx. 4m to the right of Překvapka over a block, slightly right upwards, higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Opuštěná stěna
Through the crack to the right of Váha under a sloping overhang and directly over it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+
Opuštěná stěna
Over sloping ledges, directly over the first bolt to the balcony, slightly right upwards… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Laid wall
4+
Opuštěná stěna
To the right of Novoroční over sloping ledges to the start, through the corner, higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Opuštěná stěna
Through broken rock, cracks to the left and corners to the summit. Without belay. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4+
Opuštěná stěna
Via a wide crack behind the small pillar to the right to its summit and over the rock to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Opuštěná stěna
Along the laid wall to the right of Štír into the corner, up and along the flat pillar… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Opuštěná stěna
Up the face of the small pillar and higher to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3+
Honzova stěna
Completely to the bottom right onto the edge (rock), along the edge to the summit to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Honzova stěna
In the left part of the upper wall, through a corner and a crack to the anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Honzova stěna
Just to the right of the Sun Edge, up through broken terrain to the abseil point.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
6+
Honzova stěna
Up the right part of the smooth wall, above the bolt diagonally right to the Sun Edge,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6+
Honzova stěna
Up the middle of the smooth wall to the summit to the anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4
Honzova stěna
Up the short lower wall to the right, through a small corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5-
Nad roklí
8 m up a steep gully, then up a vertical wall to the anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Honzova stěna
Up the short lower wall to the left, directly over the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3+
Nad roklí
Start on the right over green steps at the lowest point of the wall, along the edge to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Hromosvod
Along the fall line of the summit, take the wide right crack into the wall, through the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
5+
Stěna u Prstu
Right behind the edge of the Cabinet in the middle of the wall, a slab under a square… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Stěna u Prstu
Sharp edge above the Finger to the VK (summit bolt). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Stěna u Prstu
Up the corner to the right below the edge of the Cabinet. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends
5-
Stěna u Prstu
From the saddle behind the Finger over an overhang and a laid-back inclined pillar to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Stěna u Prstu
2 m right over loose blocks (!) below the tower, behind the Finger to VK. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends
3-
Stěna u Prstu
Up the left structured wall of Prst directly to the stand. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Stěna u Prstu
Up the wall under the tower, right through the corner and step over to the left edge of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Stěna u Prstu
Diagonally right from Slívovi into the gully and up to the Skříň stand. Suitable for… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4
Stěna u Prstu
Up the broken wall, fragile, loose blocks! Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1

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