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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

5
Biskupská stolice - sever
In the lower part (E) of the wall, there is a vertical crack in the smooth wall. Up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
4
Biskupská stolice - sever
To the stance at the birch tree under the crack like "Nedělní" (Sunday). However, further… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Biskupská stolice - sever
A prominent depression extends across the central wall. Approach here via grassy steps… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5-
Polední pilíř - pravá část
In the right part (W) of the wall to the right of the sharp edge, up a crack (2 pitons)… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
5-
Polední pilíř - pravá část
From the small platform left into the corner crack and up that. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Polední pilíř - Záclony
From the starting bolt, left up the small crack over 2 bolts to the stance at the bolt on… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
4+
Polední pilíř - pravá část
In the upper right part of the wall, briefly up a corner to a rocky step. Through the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow
4
Polední pilíř - Záclony
From the starting bolt, right up the small crack over a piton and another bolt to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
5-
Polední pilíř - pravá část
Approximately to the right (W) of the wall of Polední pillar, a low, sharply edged small… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Polední pilíř - pravá část
Through the smooth, trough-like depression up the wall. Over steps to the ridge and along… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5+
Polední pilíř - pravá část
In the lower part (W) of the wall of Polední pillar, to the right of "Polední spára" is a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+
Polední pilíř - pravá část
Up the pillar to the left of "Polední spára" over a piton and bolt to its summit to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Polední pilíř - pravá část
Below the overhang like "Nebeská". However, the route does not continue under the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5-
Polední pilíř - pravá část
Below the white and smooth overhang in the right part of the valley wall of the pillar.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow
6
Polední pilíř - levá část
Along the pillar to the left of "Metla". (2 bolts + piton) Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
4
Polední pilíř - levá část
The route starts on the left valley edge of Polední pilíř (Midday Pillar). Up a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
7+
Polední pilíř - pravá část
The route leads along the pillar to the right of "Metla". Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Polední pilíř - levá část
The back of the pillar is formed by a double crack. Start with the right part up to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5
Polední pilíř - levá část
Via a crack to the left of "Metla" (Whip) for about 40 m to a balcony. To the left… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
6
Polední pilíř - levá část
Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Polední pilíř - levá část
Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5+
Polední pilíř - levá část
In the lower part of the left side wall of the pillar, there is an indentation ending in… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5+
Polední pilíř - levá část
Through a sharp corner to the right of "Smyčková" (Loop) to a small slab (4+). A wider,… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5-
Polední pilíř - levá část
Approximately halfway up the couloir, in the left wall of Polední pilíř (Midday Pillar),… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6
Polední pilíř - levá část
Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Polední pilíř - levá část
Via a crack to the right of "Bivouac Chimney" to a rappelling ring and from there to a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6-
Ostrá věžička a Malá severní stěna
Through cracks and higher up a wider crack under a prominent overhang. Over the right… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Ostrá věžička a Malá severní stěna
In the right part of the wall, where it transitions into a rock amphitheater, there is a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
11
Polední pilíř - levá část
The route starts in the upper part of the left side wall of Polední pilíř (Midday Pillar)… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6-
Ostrá věžička a Malá severní stěna
To the right, Ostrá věžička (Sharp Turret) forms a prominent corner. Up this over 3… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2

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