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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

5
Hlavní masiv - Pravý pilíř
Start from the platform to the right edge of the pillar's south wall. A few meters along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Hlavní masiv - Pravý pilíř
Up the broken pillar, then up the wall to V. věžky. Overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Hlavní masiv - Pravý pilíř
In the narrow SE wall, two shallow notches are visible in the lower part. Up the left… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4+
Hlavní masiv - Horní terasa
Up the small wall under the break and over the overhang directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
2
Hlavní masiv - Pravý pilíř
In the left part of the S wall after a chipped block. Further up the broken wall to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Hlavní masiv - Horní terasa
Up a jagged wall past an inconspicuous pillar to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4-
Hlavní masiv - Horní terasa
Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Hlavní masiv - Horní terasa
Along the edge where the Main Massif ends. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3-
Hlavní masiv - Horní terasa
Up the wall around the pine tree to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Hlavní masiv - Horní terasa
Up the edge opposite Netopýrek (little bat) to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Hlavní masiv - Horní terasa
Apparently broken recess to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5-
Hlavní masiv - Horní terasa
Up a prominent pillar to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Hlavní masiv - Horní terasa
Corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6
Hlavní masiv - Východní stěna
Up to the pine tree in two-thirds of the wall, the same as the Holubí cesta (Pigeon Route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Hlavní masiv - Východní stěna
Along an indistinct pillar to the left of the Africká maska (African Mask) route, higher… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5+
Hlavní masiv - Východní stěna
The route is located at the very end of the E face. Start from the grassy gully between… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Hlavní masiv - Východní stěna
N. To the right of the Holubí cesta, also almost in the fall line of the massive rock… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Hlavní masiv - Východní stěna
The route runs in the middle of the cut that intersects the entire eastern wall. Through… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +2
4+
Hlavní masiv - Východní stěna
Through a deep recess, higher over a broken wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6
Hlavní masiv - Východní stěna
From the right side over a rivet and a piton to the top of the pillar as in the previous… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Hlavní masiv - Východní stěna
Start up the small pillar in the fall line of the massive rock block in the upper parts… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4+
Hlavní masiv - Východní stěna
Up the starting wall over a rivet, higher along the edge, a small wall (2nd rivet) and a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
6
Hlavní masiv - Jižní stěna
Via the Sokolí route to the balcony and into the cut. From the end of the cut, continue… Rock Climbing
6+
Hlavní masiv - Jižní stěna
Wall to the right of the Staronová route. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
7
Hlavní masiv - Jižní stěna
Start in the overhang from two rounded holds to the left of the Sokolí start. Directly… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
8-
Hlavní masiv - Jižní stěna
Start in the fall line of the overhanging crack. Up the crack to the ledge. 1st ascent -… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6
Hlavní masiv - Jižní stěna
At the point where Sokolí separates from Staronová, via a diagonal crack (rivet) to the… Rock Climbing Friends
9+
Hlavní masiv - Jižní stěna
Ascent with self-protection along cracks in the fall line of the right edge of the large… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
8-
Hlavní masiv - Jižní stěna
By the corner up to below the overhang and from there directly (rivets) to the summit.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
9-
Hlavní masiv - Jižní stěna
Overhang and crack (2 rivets) into the Lavaredo route. Briefly along it into the slab and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay

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