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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

1
Věž Gadede
From the upper side freely n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
3
Deja vu
On the left part of the "organ-like" wall, along the edge (bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
3
Deja vu
Through the center of the wall over the organs (add bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
3
Ukulelelembo
On the right part of the West face, along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
3
Deja vu
On the right, up the wall over the organs n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
2
Ukulelelembo
From the upper edge via a V-shaped wall along the edge to the summit Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Ukulelelembo
Three meters to the right of the upper edge, up the East face to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+
Ukulelelembo
Through the center of the narrow valley wall (5 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Frankenjura
In the left part of the valley wall via a slab (bh) to an overhanging crack and along it … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+
Frankenjura
In the left part of the massif via a wall under the overhang (bh), difficultly over it… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Frankenjura
Via the right upper edge a. s. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Frankenjura
In the middle part of the valley wall from the stone via a wall (3 bh) to the 4th bh of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Frankenjura
In the right part of the valley wall along the overhanging crack into a wide chimney (3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
2
Frankenjura
From the upper side on the left along a small corner or crack in the middle of the wall a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
2
EC věž
Via a V-shaped wall a. s. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
2+
EC věž
In the upper side a. s. Rock Climbing
8-
Neklidný pstruh
bh a. s. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Neklidný pstruh
Up the left chimney (3 bh) and to the right up the sloping wall n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5-
Neklidný pstruh
Up the right chimney (3 bh) n. v. Danger of falling rocks at the top! Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
3
Nanověž
Right edge of the valley wall n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Kašpárkův masiv
In the left part of the massif, a slab (bh) and along a crack and corner (2 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
Nanověž
On the right side of the S wall along the rib (2 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5-
Nanověž
On the left side of the valley wall under the overhang (bh) and a crack (bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
2
Nanověž
Center of the sloping S wall n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
1
Nanověž
Anywhere on the uphill wall n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Betonárka
Traverse the massif from left to right. Fixed belay Route in shadow
3
Betonárka
By the right part of the pillar (4 bolt hangers), then up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
Betonárka
On the left, in the V-shaped wall, across the slab (bolt hanger) and block (bolt hanger),… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Betonárka
In the right part of the massif, by the wall, then up. Fixed belay Route in shadow
4
Betonárka
Left part of the pillar (3 bh) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1

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