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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

7
Skalky
Start at the base of the gully. Up the smooth face (4 bolts) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
5+
Skalky
Up broken rock, following a depression to a ledge. From there, either to the left or 2 m… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
Skalky
Where the rock is highest, it forms an edge. From the left under the overhang, higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Skalky
Up the face to the left of Říční hrana into the triangular break and left to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Skalky
From the left or directly up the slab under the overhang. Over the overhang from the left… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay
7-
Skalky
Start at the sign. Up the smooth face (2 bolts) to the balcony (3rd bolt). From the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5
Skalky
The route leads up an approximately 20m high SW-facing face. Start from left to right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Skalky
Up the corner, which higher up turns into a wide crack (2 bolts, pitons), to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4
Skalky
From the edge where the overhanging face ends, there is a right-angled corner. Through… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6
Skalky
In the middle of the corner, at the 2nd bolt, traverse left to the edge and along it … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Skalky
Leftwards, following a receding groove to the ledge. Left to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Skalky
Along a shallow overhanging crack (3 bolts) to the summit. 1st free ascent - Stanislav… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+
Skalky
To the right of Karlovarská, over a ring and bolt to the ledge and the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
4
Skalky
About 1 m to the right of the edge by an indistinct groove. Also climbed from the right… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4-
Polom
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Kurtizána
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Kurtizána
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Brusinková
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Brusinková
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
2
Panenka
Descent from the massif and over the overhang, n. v. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6
Panenka
Up the narrow V-shaped overhanging wall via the BH, n. v. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Panenka
Up the middle of the valley's south face, n. v. (flakey) Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Danger
5
Panenka
From the west face, via the BH, and right into the valley face, n. v. (flakey) Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Panenka
Up the plateau face, or the chimney between the tower and the massif, n. v. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
2
Nízké skály
Rock Climbing
6
Dvě špice
Rock Climbing
6
Racochejl
Rock Climbing
6
Dvě špice
Rock Climbing
?
Píďalka taxi
start variant with the left stone (VI) or without the left stone (VII) Rock Climbing
5
Racochejl
Rock Climbing

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