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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

3+
Oltář
A central corner divides the wall. Lower crack and higher corner (bh) to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +2
4+
Katedrála
Completely on the left. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +2
3
Katedrála
The right part of the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +1
4
Oltář
In the left part of the wall, slightly behind the corner, up the side wall via bh to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +2
6-
Katedrála
Variant starting from the right of the "Spannung" route. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +2
3
Katedrála
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +2
3
Katedrála
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +1
5+
Katedrála
Center of the slabby face to a small, indistinct pillar (bh), then slightly left across… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +2
3-
Lovec
Ascend the south face using the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends
4+
Katedrála
The route follows the left edge of the front face. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +2
3
Lovec
Up the northern small wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends
4-
Lovec
The edge to the right of "Normal Route". Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends
4
Katedrála
To the right of the "Spannung" route, a crack running the entire length of the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +2
2
Lovec
Up the western articulated small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends
3
Ostrovská věž
Up the left part of the valley wall. Right of the chipped block (bolt). Higher up over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +1
4+
Ostrovská věž
Up the right part of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends
4
Ostrovská věž
Up the middle of the wall via 3 rivets to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +1
4+
Ostrovská věž
Along the hand crack via steps to the balcony and then the same as the route "Square" via… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +1
4+
Ostrovská věž
Up the sloping wall to the right of the corner over 2 bolts to the balcony and then up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +1
3+
Ostrovská věž
Up the massive corner with a crack under the overhang (bolt) and then left to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +1
2
Ryba
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +1
3
Ryba
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +1
4
Ryba
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +2
4+
Ryba
Completely on the left over the overhanging start and one bolt in the slab. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +2
3
Hlava
Farthest to the left along the corner, then right to the tree at the top. (1 bolt) Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +2
4+
Pivrnec
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +2
5
Ryba
Second from the left. (1 bolt) Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +2
5+
Hlava
Directly up the middle of the small wall (bolt). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +1
5
Hlava
Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +1
5
Hlava
Second route from the left, traverses right and crosses the route "Head 22". Then up and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +1

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