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Climbing at North-West Bohemia

7003 routes
4 areas
1–12 grades

North-west Bohemia offers climbing on rock other than sandstone – the volcanic rocks of the Central Bohemian Uplands and the crystalline rocks of the Ore Mountains. The Ore Mountains run about 150 km along the Czech–German border; the highest peak is Klínovec (1,244 m), the range is built of gneiss, slate and granite plutons, and since 2019 the Erzgebirge/Krušnohoří Mining Region has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Central Bohemian Uplands, about 70 km long and split by the Elbe valley, are volcanic in origin and mainly basalt; about 84% of them are protected as the České středohoří PLA, with Milešovka (837 m) the highest point.

The best-known mountain is Bořeň (539 m) near Bílina – a phonolite hill on the north-west edge of the Central Bohemian Uplands, often compared with Devils Tower in Wyoming and described as the largest phonolite structure of its kind in Europe; an educational trail crosses its national nature reserve. In the Ohře valley lie the Perštejnské skály and Skály u Tušimic, and above Most stands Hněvín castle with via ferratas. Trad climbing with fixed protection and your own cams dominates, complemented by sport areas and bouldering. Many crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association and the PLA administrations.

Part of Czech Republic, North-West Bohemia has 7003 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 4 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Friends.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.

3
Hlavní věž
To the left of the Edge route's start, a slightly overhanging slab, higher up along the… Rock Climbing
2
Hlavní věž
Through a short wall (bolt) to the edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
?
Hlavní věž
Start like Edge - a variation to a prominent ledge and from there diagonally left upwards… Rock Climbing
6
Lebka
By traversing from the block into the wall, along the spear (bolt) to the tip (bolt) and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Špičák
Near the SE ridge with aid (bolt) and left along the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay
7+
Špičák
In the left part of the upper wall, diagonally left through a notch to the edge (bolt)… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay
6+
Špičák
Along the crack near the NW ridge (1 bolt) to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay
2
Lebka
From the west along the reclining edge or more centrally under the summit head (Skull)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7
Lebka
Start from the gorge via a distinct overhanging crack over 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Lebka
Left of c. "Hirtenriss" by stepping from the block into the crack and via it to the ledge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
2
Lebka
From the SW along the rounded ridge. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
2
Lebka
From the south along the slabby wall into the gap and to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
2
Želva
Along the west ridge to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Hřebenová věž
From the upper side into the gap between the summits and shortly to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Brána
Through a wide crack in the narrow valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
2
Podzimní věž
In the right part of the upper wall, through the corner over the steps to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Havraní věž
In the right side wall of the tower into the recess, directly over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing
8-
Havraní věž
Along the right valley edge to the balcony and then freely to the summit. (1 bolt) Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Havraní věž
In the left part of the upper face via the recess to the balcony and then freely to the… Rock Climbing
4
Havraní věž
From the corner in the middle of the valley wall, up the right wall higher along the edge… Rock Climbing
6-
Havraní věž
Along the left valley edge to the 2nd bolt and right over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-
Havraní věž
Up the left part of the valley wall under the overhang and directly to the summit. (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Havraní věž
From inside the corner in the middle of the valley wall, left via the corner crack to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Havraní věž
From inside the corner in the middle of the valley wall, right via the overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Havraní věž
Up the middle of the upper face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Havraní věž
Up the wall to the right of the isolated crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Havraní věž
From the upper side slightly right via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-
Havraní věž
Up the vertical smooth wall between the Veveřice and Osada Havranů routes via 2 bolts,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Havraní věž
From the 2nd bolt of the Osada havranů route slightly left to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Havraní věž
Along the upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing

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