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Climbing at Sokratova hlava

9 routes
6+/7- grades

Part of Hvězda - Mezi Hvězdou a Kovářovou roklí, Sokratova hlava has 9 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay.

Rules

Nature Conservation: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1st to April 30th. Nature Conservation Document: Public Notice 2018, Map 1, Map 2, OP authority CHKO Broumovsko (Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area)

- Do not damage nature - do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks and in their surroundings, do not remove stones, wood, soil, etc. from terraces and the surface of the rocks - Use only tourist routes and access paths marked in the permit attachment for access - Do not disturb nesting birds and inform the PLA administration if nesting is detected - Climb only on dry rocks, in daylight, in shoes that do not damage the surface of the rocks - Do not use magnesium - Prohibition of damaging or modifying the surface of the rocks (inappropriate handling of the rope, chopping holds, steps) - Prohibition of using belay devices that damage the rock (wedges, friends) - First ascents and installation of fixed belays only with the prior consent of the PLA administration The permit does not apply to bouldering.

Seasonal climbing ban from 1 January to 30 April. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • Climb only on designated rocks – closed rocks are marked with prohibition signs.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only).
  • Camping only at campsites.

National nature reserve. On the designated rocks climbing is mostly allowed from 1 July to 31 December. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

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6+/7-
Sokratova hlava
Along the route 'Enlightenment' to the oblique notch. Directly through the chimney and… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sokratova hlava
From the W (right of the passage), through a double crack into the chimney and up to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sokratova hlava
From the SW, through a system of chimneys to the pillars, traversing to the 'head' and… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sokratova hlava
From the exit, in the corner, through a crack onto the pillar. Up the wall to the pillars… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sokratova hlava
From the N (from the Sphinx) into the cave, through which ascend right into the window… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sokratova hlava
From the bifurcation, take the right crack to the balcony and the corner crack onto the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sokratova hlava
In the right part of the NE wall, through a crack and a fissure into a bifurcation,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Sokratova hlava
In the left part of the NE wall, by aid climbing, through a crack and a broken fissure … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Sokratova hlava
From the N, ascend the wall left into a ledge and along it (2 rings) to the balcony. To… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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