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Climbing at Hvězda - Mezi Hvězdou a Kovářovou roklí

171 routes
42 areas
2–8/8+ grades

The sector between Hvězda and Kovářova rokle is, with more than 170 routes on 42 towers, the largest sector of the Broumov Walls. The towers with the most routes include Půp, Mušle, Sokratova hlava, Bumbrlíček, Konečník and Šampión. The climbing is traditional with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 8/8+.

Part of Broumov Walls, Hvězda - Mezi Hvězdou a Kovářovou roklí has 171 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 8/8+. Explore its 42 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay.

Rules

- Do not damage nature - do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks and in their surroundings, do not remove stones, wood, soil, etc. from terraces and the surface of the rocks - Use only tourist routes and access paths marked in the permit attachment for access - Do not disturb nesting birds and inform the PLA administration if nesting is detected - Climb only on dry rocks, in daylight, in shoes that do not damage the surface of the rocks - Do not use magnesium - Prohibition of damaging or modifying the surface of the rocks (inappropriate handling of the rope, chopping holds, steps) - Prohibition of using belay devices that damage the rock (wedges, friends) - First ascents and installation of fixed belays only with the prior consent of the PLA administration The permit does not apply to bouldering.

Seasonal climbing ban from 1 January to 30 April. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • Climb only on designated rocks – closed rocks are marked with prohibition signs.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only).
  • Camping only at campsites.

National nature reserve. On the designated rocks climbing is mostly allowed from 1 July to 31 December. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8/8+
Sova
From SW via a crack to the balcony. Along the southern edge (3 bolts) and left through a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sova
(By building/stacking) and along the W edge to the 1st ring. Traverse left to the 2nd… Rock Climbing
4-
Bumbrlíček
From SW behind the boulder (above the tourist path) in the corner up the wall, small… Rock Climbing
2
Bumbrlíček
From the uphill side by traversing the blocks and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Bumbrlíček
Up the wall as 'Marching Exercise', then directly along the gully to the ring and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Bumbrlíček
Start as 'Marching Exercise'. Right oblique crack and left along the ledge to the ring.… Rock Climbing
6-
Bumbrlíček
From the ring right to the ring of the route 'Krteček's Tales' and along it to the summit… Rock Climbing
4-
Bumbrlíček
Up the wall along the eastern edge into the notch (of the route 'Krteček's Tales') and… Rock Climbing
5+
Bumbrlíček
From the south up the wall and gully left to the ring. Up the wall below the summit to… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Bumbrlíček
Via the route 'Mysterious Nook' to the saddle and left through a notch (2 bolts) and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Renér
From NW, over the overhang and via a crack to the end (hourglass/piton). Left via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Kočka
From NW, with aid into the notch to the ring. Through the notch and wall to the shelf and… Rock Climbing
3
Kočka
From SE, with aid and via the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Kočka
From SE, step left into the south wall (added ring), along it to the shelf and via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Mušle
To the right of Synapse, via the corner and over the overhang to the ledge. Valley route… Rock Climbing
6-
Mušle
From SE over blocks into a narrow chimney, through it to the pillar. Via a crack, higher… Rock Climbing
5+
Velbloud
From S, via the left crack in the corner to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Velbloud
From the S, up a right crack to the break in the wall, then step left and via route No. 4… Rock Climbing
4
Velbloud
Up the left S crack n. v. (Normal Way/Normal ascent). Rock Climbing
2
Velbloud
SW chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Perla
In the NW corner, up a left crack over the overhang and through the corner, higher up a… Rock Climbing
3
Velbloud
Up the right S crack n. v. (Normal Way/Normal ascent). Rock Climbing
5+
Perla
From the valley side, via a small chimney/alcove and a crack into the chimney. Through… Rock Climbing
6
Perla
Via the route "Valley Chimney" to the ledge. Traverse right to the balcony. Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Perla
From the south, over blocks to the pre-summit. Via the route "Valley Chimney" to the… Rock Climbing
6
Perla
Right of the route "Second", up the overhanging wall to a crack, through the crack (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Perla
From the SE, up a right crack over the overhang and through a chimney n. v. (Normal Way… Rock Climbing
2+
Skarabeus
From the SW, descend into the chimney. Up a slab crack to the pillar. Via the route … Rock Climbing
5
Krtek
From the N (left of the route "From the Depths"), through a chimney and crack to the… Rock Climbing
5
Krtek
From the SW gorge, via a corner to the pillar and then via the route "Summer Mixture" to… Rock Climbing

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