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Climbing at Hvězda - Mezi Hvězdou a Kovářovou roklí

171 routes
42 areas
2–8/8+ grades

The sector between Hvězda and Kovářova rokle is, with more than 170 routes on 42 towers, the largest sector of the Broumov Walls. The towers with the most routes include Půp, Mušle, Sokratova hlava, Bumbrlíček, Konečník and Šampión. The climbing is traditional with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 8/8+.

Part of Broumov Walls, Hvězda - Mezi Hvězdou a Kovářovou roklí has 171 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 8/8+. Explore its 42 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay.

Rules

- Do not damage nature - do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks and in their surroundings, do not remove stones, wood, soil, etc. from terraces and the surface of the rocks - Use only tourist routes and access paths marked in the permit attachment for access - Do not disturb nesting birds and inform the PLA administration if nesting is detected - Climb only on dry rocks, in daylight, in shoes that do not damage the surface of the rocks - Do not use magnesium - Prohibition of damaging or modifying the surface of the rocks (inappropriate handling of the rope, chopping holds, steps) - Prohibition of using belay devices that damage the rock (wedges, friends) - First ascents and installation of fixed belays only with the prior consent of the PLA administration The permit does not apply to bouldering.

Seasonal climbing ban from 1 January to 30 April. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • Climb only on designated rocks – closed rocks are marked with prohibition signs.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only).
  • Camping only at campsites.

National nature reserve. On the designated rocks climbing is mostly allowed from 1 July to 31 December. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Půp 11 routes Mušle 10 routes Sokratova hlava 9 routes Bumbrlíček 8 routes Konečník 8 routes Šampión 7 routes Šakalík 6 routes Perla 6 routes Škeble 6 routes Větrolamy 6 routes Atlantida 5 routes Dionýsos 5 routes Krtek 5 routes Sedmašedesátka 5 routes Velbloud 5 routes Koule 5 routes Pobřeží 4 routes Skarabeus 4 routes Sandahál 4 routes Útes 4 routes Mamča 4 routes Prostopášnice 3 routes Rybář 3 routes Šampionův masiv 3 routes Renér 3 routes Slůně 3 routes Chrám 3 routes Kočka 3 routes Lišák 3 routes Vlna 2 routes Yosemite 2 routes Stěna Šampáň 2 routes Šestivěží 2 routes Sova 2 routes Korál 2 routes Šakal 2 routes Vosí hnízdo 1 route Čtverák 1 route Sfinga 1 route Želva 1 route Podivuhodný Mandarin 1 route Ostříži 1 route
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6-
Půp
From the cave on the left, up a crack over the overhang (ring) and gully, higher up a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Půp
From the NW, from the balcony, via a crack over an overhang into a cave. To the right, up… Rock Climbing
3
Šakalík
In the middle of the NE wall, up a chimney to the start of a narrow chimney. Rock Climbing
5
Šakalík
In the left part of the NE wall, follow a crack trending left to a ledge, then right into… Rock Climbing
5+
Mamča
From the NW, via a chimney and crack to a balcony. Then up cracks and the wall to the… Rock Climbing
3
Vosí hnízdo
From the NE, via a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Sfinga
On the plateau side (from the south), from a block, ascend with an aid move and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Větrolamy
In the SW wall, completely to the right, via a crack and chimney to the pre-summit.… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Větrolamy
From the chimney between the tower and Konečník, up a crack and the wall (2 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Větrolamy
From the valley side, at the left corner of the Swallow's Chimney, up the wall and a… Rock Climbing
4-
Koule
In the right part of the SW wall, a short crack leads to a small platform, then up the… Rock Climbing
5
Koule
To the left of Fekalománie, use an opposition move against a block, then an overhang and… Rock Climbing
3
Koule
From the NW, from a boulder in the saddle, traverse above the chimney. Then via an… Rock Climbing
4-
Koule
From the NE, follow the crack to its end, then right up the wall into the saddle. Rock Climbing
4-
Sandahál
From the pillar directly by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Koule
Below the abseiling wall to the ring and then diagonally right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sedmašedesátka
To the left of the start of Marko's briefly by crack into the flake and traverse right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Sedmašedesátka
To the right of the NE Crack route by crack, chimney and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Sedmašedesátka
In the NE face over the overhang to the 1st ring. To the left by notch and wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Sedmašedesátka
In the narrow NW face by crack (ring) to the end and to the right along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Pobřeží
In the right part of the NE face by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Pobřeží
By SW chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Yosemite
To the right of the Falcon route by break-out and wall, finally via the Falcon route to… Rock Climbing
3
Vlna
Opposite the Wooden Saddle briefly by wall to the block below the SW chimney. By chimney… Rock Climbing
3
Yosemite
By the Falcon crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Želva
From NW by overhanging crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Vlna
From NE by crack into the hole, to the left by arête (ring) and by wall into the crack,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Útes
To the right of the Slanted Route by crack to the balcony. By corner crack later by… Rock Climbing
4-
Útes
In the left part of the NE face (by the birch tree) by wall and crack to the gallery, by… Rock Climbing
3
Útes
Immediately to the left of the Amok route by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing

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