The sector between Hvězda and Kovářova rokle is, with more than 170 routes on 42 towers, the largest sector of the Broumov Walls. The towers with the most routes include Půp, Mušle, Sokratova hlava, Bumbrlíček, Konečník and Šampión. The climbing is traditional with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 8/8+.
Part of Broumov Walls, Hvězda - Mezi Hvězdou a Kovářovou roklí has 171 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 8/8+. Explore its 42 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay.
Rules
- Do not damage nature - do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks and in their surroundings, do not remove stones, wood, soil, etc. from terraces and the surface of the rocks - Use only tourist routes and access paths marked in the permit attachment for access - Do not disturb nesting birds and inform the PLA administration if nesting is detected - Climb only on dry rocks, in daylight, in shoes that do not damage the surface of the rocks - Do not use magnesium - Prohibition of damaging or modifying the surface of the rocks (inappropriate handling of the rope, chopping holds, steps) - Prohibition of using belay devices that damage the rock (wedges, friends) - First ascents and installation of fixed belays only with the prior consent of the PLA administration The permit does not apply to bouldering.
Seasonal climbing ban from 1 January to 30 April. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.
- Climb only on designated rocks – closed rocks are marked with prohibition signs.
- The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only).
- Camping only at campsites.
National nature reserve. On the designated rocks climbing is mostly allowed from 1 July to 31 December. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.
- The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
- Creating or chipping holds is banned.
- Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
- No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.
Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Půp Mušle Sokratova hlava Bumbrlíček Konečník Šampión Šakalík Perla Škeble Větrolamy Atlantida Dionýsos Krtek Sedmašedesátka Velbloud Koule Pobřeží Skarabeus Sandahál Útes Mamča Prostopášnice Rybář Šampionův masiv Renér Slůně Chrám Kočka Lišák Vlna Yosemite Stěna Šampáň Šestivěží Sova Korál Šakal Vosí hnízdo Čtverák Sfinga Želva Podivuhodný Mandarin Ostříži
4-
Minuty v šeru
From SW, to the right of the Horská variant, from the block by stepping over and a crack… Rock Climbing
4-
Skalní
Via the Autumn Colors route to the plateau. In the corner by zig-zag chimney to the… Rock Climbing
6
Dřina jak má bejt
From the NW, to the right of the route 'Autumn Colors', take the unmistakable corner… Rock Climbing
6-
Slunovrat
Via the Autumn Colors route to the plateau. To the left by double crack in the corner to… Rock Climbing
4-
Barvy podzimu - Horská
To the left in the SW (from the Cat), take the left crack, higher up the chimney of the … Rock Climbing
6
Barvy podzimu
From the NW (from the Shell), through the corner crack to the platform and through the… Rock Climbing
2+
Vyjící komín
In the NE wall (from the birch tree), through the middle chimney and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Spíš strach než sezónní únava
To the right of the route 'Rasovina na Šampiona', through the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Zase ne
Immediately to the right of the route 'Spíš strach než sezónní únava', through the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Osvícení
From the W (right of the passage), through a double crack into the chimney and up to the… Rock Climbing
6
Supertrop
In the left part of the NE wall, directly over a ledge to the crack and through it to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Umění mlčet
Along the route 'Enlightenment' to the oblique notch. Directly through the chimney and… Rock Climbing
2+
Od buku
In the NE wall (from the beech tree), to the right through an oblique chimney to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Na ostří zrna
In the middle of the NE wall, through a crack over a ledge (1st ring) to the end at the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Filozofický dialog
From the SW, through a system of chimneys to the pillars, traversing to the 'head' and… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Koutek
From the exit, in the corner, through a crack onto the pillar. Up the wall to the pillars… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Dávný myslitel - Z jeskyně
From the N (from the Sphinx) into the cave, through which ascend right into the window… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Brusinkový výlet
In the right part of the NE wall, through a crack and a fissure into a bifurcation,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Náhorní
From the NE, from the balcony through the crack and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Brusinkový výlet - Podhříbková varianta
From the bifurcation, take the right crack to the balcony and the corner crack onto the… Rock Climbing
3
Blázni v maskáčích
From the valley by stemming to the ledge and by a gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Jarní
From the NE, using resistance on a ledge, traverse left and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Lokace mánie
From the SW, through the crack to the end, right along the wall into the crack, then… Rock Climbing
4-
Spára na večer
From SE, right of the chimney, by the left crack to the blocks. Left into the gap between… Rock Climbing
6
Slunce, kosa, vítr, stín
From SE by a distinct corner (dihedral) (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay