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Climbing at Hvězda - Mezi Hvězdou a Kovářovou roklí

171 routes
42 areas
2–8/8+ grades

The sector between Hvězda and Kovářova rokle is, with more than 170 routes on 42 towers, the largest sector of the Broumov Walls. The towers with the most routes include Půp, Mušle, Sokratova hlava, Bumbrlíček, Konečník and Šampión. The climbing is traditional with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 8/8+.

Part of Broumov Walls, Hvězda - Mezi Hvězdou a Kovářovou roklí has 171 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 8/8+. Explore its 42 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay.

Rules

- Do not damage nature - do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks and in their surroundings, do not remove stones, wood, soil, etc. from terraces and the surface of the rocks - Use only tourist routes and access paths marked in the permit attachment for access - Do not disturb nesting birds and inform the PLA administration if nesting is detected - Climb only on dry rocks, in daylight, in shoes that do not damage the surface of the rocks - Do not use magnesium - Prohibition of damaging or modifying the surface of the rocks (inappropriate handling of the rope, chopping holds, steps) - Prohibition of using belay devices that damage the rock (wedges, friends) - First ascents and installation of fixed belays only with the prior consent of the PLA administration The permit does not apply to bouldering.

Seasonal climbing ban from 1 January to 30 April. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • Climb only on designated rocks – closed rocks are marked with prohibition signs.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only).
  • Camping only at campsites.

National nature reserve. On the designated rocks climbing is mostly allowed from 1 July to 31 December. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Šakalík
From the plateau side (from the W), via a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Mamča
From the plateau side, up the wall to a block and then a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Mamča
From the NW, via a double crack into a chimney, and then up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Větrolamy
In the right part of the SW wall, via a chimney and crack to the pre-summit. Then up the… Rock Climbing
3
Větrolamy
To the left of the Korejsův sen (Korean's Dream) route (from boulders) into an opposition… Rock Climbing
4
Větrolamy
In the left part of the SW wall, up the crack to its end, then traverse into a gully and… Rock Climbing
4
Čtverák
In the NE face by short crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Sandahál
By the left part of the plateau face to the edge of the Brown route and by that to the… Rock Climbing
3
Sandahál
From the fore-rock directly along the edge and higher by the edge of the Brown route to… Rock Climbing
3
Sandahál
From NW to the right fore-rock by north chimney to the pillar. To the right to the edge… Rock Climbing
4
Pobřeží
From the left edge (by the route) by corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Sedmašedesátka
In the left part of the NE face by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Pobřeží
In the left part of the NE face by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Šestivěží
From the exit, from the highest point of the terrain, along the edge to the eastern block. Rock Climbing
6-
Šampionův masiv
Through the crack in the eastern edge to the balcony. Up the NE wall (ring) and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Sokratova hlava
In the left part of the NE wall, by aid climbing, through a crack and a broken fissure … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Sokratova hlava
From the N, ascend the wall left into a ledge and along it (2 rings) to the balcony. To… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Podivuhodný Mandarin
With generous use of aid/stacking into the gully to the pillar. By stepping over (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Konečník
By a chimney between "Větrolamy" (Windbreaks) and the tower to the crack, along it (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Konečník
From the plateau side by a small crack to the NW block. By stepping over and the west… Rock Climbing
3
Dionýsos
From SE from the gorge, by the wall along the edge and a gully to the pillar. Left to the… Rock Climbing

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