The sector between Hvězda and Kovářova rokle is, with more than 170 routes on 42 towers, the largest sector of the Broumov Walls. The towers with the most routes include Půp, Mušle, Sokratova hlava, Bumbrlíček, Konečník and Šampión. The climbing is traditional with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 8/8+.
Part of Broumov Walls, Hvězda - Mezi Hvězdou a Kovářovou roklí has 171 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 8/8+. Explore its 42 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay.
Rules
- Do not damage nature - do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks and in their surroundings, do not remove stones, wood, soil, etc. from terraces and the surface of the rocks - Use only tourist routes and access paths marked in the permit attachment for access - Do not disturb nesting birds and inform the PLA administration if nesting is detected - Climb only on dry rocks, in daylight, in shoes that do not damage the surface of the rocks - Do not use magnesium - Prohibition of damaging or modifying the surface of the rocks (inappropriate handling of the rope, chopping holds, steps) - Prohibition of using belay devices that damage the rock (wedges, friends) - First ascents and installation of fixed belays only with the prior consent of the PLA administration The permit does not apply to bouldering.
Seasonal climbing ban from 1 January to 30 April. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.
- Climb only on designated rocks – closed rocks are marked with prohibition signs.
- The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only).
- Camping only at campsites.
National nature reserve. On the designated rocks climbing is mostly allowed from 1 July to 31 December. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.
- The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
- Creating or chipping holds is banned.
- Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
- No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.
Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Půp Mušle Sokratova hlava Bumbrlíček Konečník Šampión Šakalík Perla Škeble Větrolamy Atlantida Dionýsos Krtek Sedmašedesátka Velbloud Koule Pobřeží Skarabeus Sandahál Útes Mamča Prostopášnice Rybář Šampionův masiv Renér Slůně Chrám Kočka Lišák Vlna Yosemite Stěna Šampáň Šestivěží Sova Korál Šakal Vosí hnízdo Čtverák Sfinga Želva Podivuhodný Mandarin Ostříži
2
Vnitřní
In the left part of the NE wall via a crack to the window. Through the opening into the… Rock Climbing
6
Údolní
From SE, along the ledge right and via a crack in the NE wall over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing
3
Dvě trefy
In the left part of the NE wall along the edge to the pre-summit. (With aid) and wall to… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Pisoár
Via the valley route into the hollow, traverse right along the slab. Wall (ring), gully… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+
Synapse
From the valley side via a broken crack (ring) to the ledge. Route No. 2 or 4 to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Jižní cesta
Along the blunt south edge (1st ring) slightly right to the rounded rib. Up it to the… Rock Climbing
6
JV travers
Along the ledge in the SE wall to the east edge to the ring, (with aid) to the small… Rock Climbing
6-
Jihovýchodní traverz - Varianta
From the small platform via the South Edge route to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+
Z hlubin
In the valley wall (from the lowest point of the terrain), up a crack n. v. (Normal Way… Rock Climbing
5
Tajemství skarabea
From the valley side, via a chimney and cracks to a block. In the ledge to the right and… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Pochod faraónů
From the NE, traverse along ledges, then a jump and up the wall n. v. (Normal Way/Normal… Rock Climbing
4-
Jižní hrana
On the plateau side, along the east ridge to the pre-summit. Via the route "Summer… Rock Climbing
4
Letní směs
From the boulder (from W), descend via a chimney to the pillar. Up a crack in the SW wall… Rock Climbing
2
Stará cesta
From the plateau side, up a斜 crack to the blocks. Then left below the summit and up the… Rock Climbing
4
Šikmotlač
Left of route No. 2, up a斜 crack to the blocks. Via route No. 1 n. v. (Normal Way/Normal… Rock Climbing
3
Úzký komín
Left of route No. 1, up a narrow chimney to the blocks. Via route No. 1 n. v. (Normal Way… Rock Climbing
5
Pravá údolní
In the valley wall, via a right crack, higher up a chimney to the plateau. Using aid… Rock Climbing
5+
Levá náhorní
In the left part of the plateau wall, up a wide crack n. v. (Normal Way/Normal ascent). Rock Climbing
6+
Levá údolní
Via route No. 6 into the interior space. Through a chimney and crack over the overhang … Rock Climbing
3
Komín slepců
In the left part of the valley wall, through a vegetated chimney into the interior space.… Rock Climbing
5+
Utišený kout
From the S, via a chimney, crack, double crack, and a corner crack into the saddle. Then… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Hrana Hvězdy
From the right valley corner of the tower, via a system of cracks and the wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Hrana Hvězdy - Nástupová varianta
From the chimney, left up the wall (ring) to the notch below the 2nd ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Šok-olík
In the right part of the valley (NE) wall, via a small ridge and a crack to a ledge.… Rock Climbing
4-
Starostlivá
From the SE, via a crooked crack into a window and then through the opening to the summit. Rock Climbing