The sector between Hvězda and Kovářova rokle is, with more than 170 routes on 42 towers, the largest sector of the Broumov Walls. The towers with the most routes include Půp, Mušle, Sokratova hlava, Bumbrlíček, Konečník and Šampión. The climbing is traditional with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 8/8+.
Part of Broumov Walls, Hvězda - Mezi Hvězdou a Kovářovou roklí has 171 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 8/8+. Explore its 42 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay.
Rules
- Do not damage nature - do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks and in their surroundings, do not remove stones, wood, soil, etc. from terraces and the surface of the rocks - Use only tourist routes and access paths marked in the permit attachment for access - Do not disturb nesting birds and inform the PLA administration if nesting is detected - Climb only on dry rocks, in daylight, in shoes that do not damage the surface of the rocks - Do not use magnesium - Prohibition of damaging or modifying the surface of the rocks (inappropriate handling of the rope, chopping holds, steps) - Prohibition of using belay devices that damage the rock (wedges, friends) - First ascents and installation of fixed belays only with the prior consent of the PLA administration The permit does not apply to bouldering.
Seasonal climbing ban from 1 January to 30 April. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.
- Climb only on designated rocks – closed rocks are marked with prohibition signs.
- The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only).
- Camping only at campsites.
National nature reserve. On the designated rocks climbing is mostly allowed from 1 July to 31 December. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.
- The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
- Creating or chipping holds is banned.
- Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
- No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.
Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Půp Mušle Sokratova hlava Bumbrlíček Konečník Šampión Šakalík Perla Škeble Větrolamy Atlantida Dionýsos Krtek Sedmašedesátka Velbloud Koule Pobřeží Skarabeus Sandahál Útes Mamča Prostopášnice Rybář Šampionův masiv Renér Slůně Chrám Kočka Lišák Vlna Yosemite Stěna Šampáň Šestivěží Sova Korál Šakal Vosí hnízdo Čtverák Sfinga Želva Podivuhodný Mandarin Ostříži
5+
Vzdor
Via "Ptačí bonz" (Bird's Snitch) route to the ledge and directly over the overhang by a… Rock Climbing
6-
Vztek
In the middle of the NE wall by a distinct wide crack (higher up by a narrow chimney) to… Rock Climbing
4-
Komín
From NE by a crack and a chimney to the balcony. Left by the overgrown wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
SV stěna
In the middle of the NE wall briefly by a chimney and left by the wall to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Larví sklizeň
Via the "SV stěna" (NE Wall) route by a chimney and further by a crack and again by a… Rock Climbing
4+
Odevzdání
In the right part of the NE wall by a crack, higher up by the right crack to its end and… Rock Climbing
5+
Radost
By the crack of "Odevzdání" (Surrender) route, higher up by the left crack and by the… Rock Climbing
5
Ptačí bonz
From NE, in the left part of the wall, by an overhanging chimney to a ledge. On the ledge… Rock Climbing
5+
Vychladnutí
From Sandahál by an overhanging chimney and a crack over an overhang. Along the crack to… Rock Climbing
3
Šikmá
From SW (right of the crawl-through into the inner space) below the block, by an… Rock Climbing
4-
Zakletá
Via "Tajný vchod" (Secret Entrance) route into the chimney, higher up directly by a… Rock Climbing
3
Tajný vchod
From W (from the inner space) by a chimney, higher up left by a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Normálka - Varianta
From the gorge by stemming and a small arête/nose to the right onto the edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Výběh pro Kentaura
Via "Průzkum" route to the balcony, by a small gully for about two meters and right by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Údolní
In the right part of the valley wall by a chimney, a crack over an overhang (ring) into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Průzkum
From NW (from the Sphinx) in a corner by a chimney to the balcony and an overgrown gully… Rock Climbing
5
Studený jako kámen
In the NE wall, in the right part, by a distinct long corner (dihedral) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Peripetie
The Stezka (Path) route over the ridge into the inner space. To the right an overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Ukrytý v severu
From the cave on the right, by a corner crack over two overhangs into a chimney and up it… Rock Climbing
3
Stezka přes hřeben
To the right in the NE wall, mixed terrain into the inner space. Through a chimney to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Jedna suchá, druhá taky
In the right part of the NE wall, a double crack, higher up a distinct oblique overhang… Rock Climbing
6
Pres žalud
From the lower side by building (stacking), a small chimney and a crack into the chimney,… Rock Climbing
3
Vnitřní - var
To the right of route no. 1 via a crack to the window and via route no. 1 to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Poslední orgasmus
To the right of route no. 2 via cracks and higher up via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Levá spára
To the left of route no. 5 via a crack, higher up via the right crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Rasovina
From the gorge (right of route no. 4) via a slanting crack through a small cave to the… Rock Climbing