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Climbing at Staré skály

51 routes
4–12 grades

Part of Sloup, Staré skály has 51 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 4 to 12. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Overhang.

Rules

Nature Conservation: Climbing allowed all year round. OP Document Decision 1994, OP authority CHKO Moravský Kras (Moravian Karst Protected Landscape Area).

OVK: in technical ascents of freely climbed routes, only removable protection can be used; it is forbidden to use pitons, bolts, spits, etc. installed with a hammer Nature protection: - climbers are obliged not to leave protection in the routes after completing the ascent

Climbing on the wall above Sloupská Cave requires prior permission from the Cave Administration of the Czech Republic.

At Holštejn, climbing out onto the top of the cliffs is banned.

Moravian Karst PLA – climbing only on permitted rocks. Some crags may be climbed only in the second half of the year; details in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply. New routes only with the approval of the ČHS South Moravia regional commission.

Parking

49.41165, 16.73844

9+
Staré skály
Start left of 'Short Spasm' Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10/10+
Staré skály
Roof climbing culminating in an exit boulder. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
10
Staré skály
Variant start of 'Hormone Redneck' over the roof. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-
Staré skály
Start like 'A Glimpse into the Future'. From the second bolt, go right on small crimps up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-
Staré skály
Start like 'A Glimpse into the Future', do not climb to the spike, but immediately right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Staré skály
Start from a stone into the overhang, from the end of a prominent spike straight up to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9-/9
Staré skály
Start from the right. Endurance on crimps. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Staré skály
From the third bolt of the original route, go left and boulder to the chain.
8
Staré skály
From the third bolt, go right into a small corner and up it.
9-
Staré skály
Across a smooth vertical slab to the right to the anchor. Finger strength required.
9-/9
Staré skály
Start from the left. Endurance on crimps.
10-/10
Staré skály
RP T. Pilka (Redpoint T. Pilka) Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Staré skály
Powerful climbing on good holds through a prominent fault in the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
?
Staré skály
Deviation from 'If a pig had wings' to the right. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-
Staré skály
Boulder start from below over a bolt to a shelf and then like Via Kučera up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9
Staré skály
Boulder for smaller bad holds. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-
Staré skály
Start from the small cave. A long reach above the arch and right of the edge up.
5
Staré skály
Original classification IV A0 Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4
Staré skály
Step into the slabby corner and up it. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
4+
Staré skály
Step into the slabby corner and then up the right edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Staré skály
Step into the wall and from the first bolt traverse right and up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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