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Climbing at Staronová věž

9 routes
4-–7-/7 grades

Part of Velké stěny, Staronová věž has 9 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 4- to 7-/7. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay.

Rules

- Do not remove stones, vegetation and otherwise interfere with vegetation on the rocks - Do not disturb nesting birds, use marked tourist routes and access paths to access the rocks - Climb only on dry rocks, in daylight - Prohibition of using magnesium and other chemical agents - Prohibition of damaging and changing the surface of the rocks, especially by improper handling of the rope, using metal belay devices, etc. - First ascents are prohibited

Nature protection: climbing allowed year-round, marked routes are permanently prohibited. Nature Protection Documents: PR Tiské stěny-OOP 2022-2027, Prohibited routes, Rocks with the possibility of completing first ascents, OP CHKO Labské Pískovce authority.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.78582, 14.02828

6-
Staronová věž
In the left part of the West wall by a crack up to the斜 ledge and along it to the bolt,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Staronová věž
To the right of the Dášenka route by a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Staronová věž
In the South wall to the right of the chimney, up the overhanging wall over 2 bolts to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Staronová věž
Start in the corner crack a few meters up and right to the 1st bolt, then straight up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Staronová věž
By a crack (with slings) to the left of the large boulder in the North wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Staronová věž
In the right part of the South wall up the wall to the 1st bolt, then up the wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Staronová věž
In the South wall through the chimney and left to the ledge to the bolt, then up a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Staronová věž
From the SW, by the corner crack into the hole (bolt on the left). From the bolt directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Staronová věž
To the right in the North wall over 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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