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Climbing at Sťatý major

11 routes
5+–8-/8 grades

Part of Velké stěny, Sťatý major has 11 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 5+ to 8-/8. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Textile belay.

Rules

- Do not remove stones, vegetation and otherwise interfere with vegetation on the rocks - Do not disturb nesting birds, use marked tourist routes and access paths to access the rocks - Climb only on dry rocks, in daylight - Prohibition of using magnesium and other chemical agents - Prohibition of damaging and changing the surface of the rocks, especially by improper handling of the rope, using metal belay devices, etc. - First ascents are prohibited

Nature protection: climbing allowed year-round, marked routes are permanently prohibited. Nature Protection Documents: PR Tiské stěny-OOP 2022-2027, Prohibited routes, Rocks with the possibility of completing first ascents, OP CHKO Labské Pískovce authority.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.78582, 14.02828

5+
Sťatý major
At the end of the crack above the overhang to the right. Rock Climbing
6
Sťatý major
Start via the Valley route. Under the overhang left to K, along the edge to the K of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
8-/8
Sťatý major
Up the wall to the left of "Fantasmagorie" to the large 'hodiny' (rock formation), via… Rock Climbing
5+
Sťatý major
Through the middle of the East face into a hole, K to the right. Left up to the 2nd K,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Sťatý major
In the left part of the East face into a hole ('hodiny' - literally 'clocks', a type of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Sťatý major
Start in the right part of the overhang, right behind the edge to K and straight up to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sťatý major
Up the middle of the South face and later left to K. Up the wall under the overhang,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Sťatý major
From K to the left to a hole and straight up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Sťatý major
Along the edge to the left of the 'Wall of Dreams' route over 2 K's to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Sťatý major
In the right part of the NE face by crack under a large overhang. Over the overhang into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Sťatý major
Through the middle of the South face to a hole and over the overhang to K, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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