Part of Jižní prostor, Střední jižní pilíř has 26 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 8+/9-. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route on sun, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing.
Rules
The permit applies to sport climbing. It does not apply to bouldering, drytooling, slackline and highline. - access only via hiking trails or marked access paths - a detailed description of the paths is in a measure of general nature - report bird nesting to the rock manager - climbing only in daylight - prohibition of damaging and changing the surface of rocks - prohibition of using protection that damages the rock - prohibition of using winter climbing equipment - prohibition of rappelling using trees and bushes, prohibition of interfering with vegetation and loosening stones - prohibition of first ascents without the consent of the rock manager, who will negotiate consent with the nature protection body OVK: - prohibition of creating routes from above without prior OVK consent - prohibition of using rocks and summit books for commercial purposes; any intention must be consulted with the manager and OVK
Nature protection: climbing allowed year-round. NPR Bořeň - OOP 2021-2030, OP CHKO České středohoří authority.
Bořeň National Nature Reserve – climb only on permitted rocks and respect any seasonal closures. Current status in the ČHS crag database.
The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commissions' rules apply. No climbing on wet rock and no altering holds.
5
Divná
Left (harder) or right to the prominent pulpit that is in the left part of the pillar.… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5-
Tařice (Mechová)
Up the sloping slabs right of 'Nová' under the striking recess (right in the wall, 1st… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
Poslední (vedle baldachýnu)
The start is to the right at the end of the wall. Up the wall under the small crack … Rock Climbing Route on sun
1
Tygrův žebřík
From the top of the Central South Pillar, a sloping ledge runs down to the right.… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6-
Levá varianta Baldachýna
Under the overhang to the left and straight up. Rock Climbing Route on sun
5+
Baldachýn
At the end of the right wall of the Central South Pillar is a large corner ending in a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
6
Hladký kout
From 'Baldachýn' there is a prominent smooth corner. Over and start in the corner and up… Rock Climbing Route on sun
7
Velký třesk
Start next to the 'Hladký kout' route, over the overhang (expansion bolt) to a step in… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6-
Špatný den pro umírání
Right of 'Baldachýn' up the rounded pillar over two rings to Tygřův žebřík. Originally a… Rock Climbing Route on sun
8-
Přímá varianta Baldachýna
Up the wall straight up under the overhang of 'Baldachýn'. Up the middle of the overhang… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Vylomená
The start of the route is under the yellow broken spot in the lower part of the wall. Up… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Zapomenutá
The route starts on the right side of the slightly protruding pillar between the routes … Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Varianta Vylomené 2
Up the wall straight up under the crack and then up the crack. Rock Climbing Route on sun
6-
Matrasova
Right of 'Vylomené' there is a corner in the wall. Up the corner over two rings under the… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Lišejníková
Up the indistinct and open corner (1st ring) under the summit slab intersected by a thin… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
5
Pilířová (Prckova)
Straight up the middle of the pillar (sk., 2 bolts) to the platform to the 3rd ring of…
5
Superdiretissima (Chrastivá)
Straight up the middle of the pillar over the overhang and up the wall. Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Diretissima
Up the fine cracks that run through the middle of the pillar. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
6-
Nová (pravá diretissima, vystrčená)
Up in the fall line of the pillar. Up the sloping slabs under the overhang. Up the corner… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5-
Hadrová
Up a short corner to the right of 'Ypsilonová' to a platform. From there to the right… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6+
Levá ypsilonová
Up a sloping crack and higher up a small fissure to a small pulpit, then to the right. Up… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6+
Ypsilonová
The left side wall of the Middle Southern Pillar is split by a Y-shaped crack.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun
5-
Hadrová - varianta
From the platform above the starting corner, go left from the expansion bolts to a step.… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +1
5
Rudolfínka
To the balcony like 'Divná'. From the balcony, take the crack to the prominent edge left… Rock Climbing Route on sun
8+/9-
Lotrando a Zubejda
Middle of the pillar (4 bolts) above the Y-shaped crack. Protection placed from above. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1