Svatošské skály in the Ohře valley is the largest area in the Karlovarsko group – 120 routes on 11 rocks, grades 3–9-. Zámek and Muzikanti have the most routes, followed by Nevěsta s ženichem, Tchýně, Svědkové and Tchán. Mostly traditional climbing on cams, with fixed belays on some routes.
Part of Karlovy Vary region, Svatošské skály has 120 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 3 to 8+/9-. Explore its 11 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Friends, Fixed belay, Vertical wall.
Rules
The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commission's rules apply: do not alter the rock or holds, do not climb on wet rock, and follow ČHS principles for first ascents.
Zámek Muzikanti Nevěsta s ženichem Tchýně Svědkové Tchán Páter Trpaslík Samotář Opilý muzikant Svatoš
5
FRANTOVA - var. HRANOU
From the balcony, from the logbook, along the edge with the aid of pitons to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Německá - var.
From the first ring further up a corner/groove to the overhang and to the right. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
6
Direttissima
From the detached block in the center of the wall, up a characteristic gully and via the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
6
Nová
To the right of the W edge, up a sharp corner under an overhang (ring). From the right… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
7-
Smuteční hrana
The route follows the right edge of the New Route, with which it merges below the summit… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
6-
Frantova
Route starting with an approach over a detached block under the Direttissima, from there… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
6
Taktička
Over a small cave and blocks to the balcony to a piton. Further up the wall slightly to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5
Severní spára
Via a crack in the left part of the North wall. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4
Zámecká hrana
Approach to the left behind the W edge and further along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4
Severní stěna
Through the right part of the North wall. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5+
Láďova varianta
Approach along a narrow ledge to the right under a smooth slab to the right of the W edge… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6
Boby Fischer
Approach like the route Krvavý šerpa. Over the overhang from the right to the balcony.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Za bukem
In the right part of the SE wall, up a sharp corner under an overhang, from the left into… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Krvavý šerpa
At the lowest point of the S wall, through a corner from the left over an overhang.… Rock Climbing
5
Pravý komín
Along the right edge of the SW wall, through a corner into a crack. Via a chimney to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Jeskynní
In the right part of the S wall, up a corner and to the right under an overhang into a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
JESKYNNÍ - var. GRIZLÍ SPÁRA
To the left of Jeskyňka, directly up a crack to the balcony. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6
Jeskynní - přímá var.
From the small cave to the right, up an overhanging crack to the ring. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Koutek
To the right of the route Natahovák, via a prominent small corner to the ridge. Rock Climbing
4
Březová
Climbing "Březová" (grade 4) in the "Tchýně" rock climbing area is a classic experience… Rock Climbing
4
Natahovák
In the NW wall along a small crack (piton) over an overhang to the ridge. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6
Večerní blues
Up the rounded edge of a prominent pillar directly (3 bolts) to its summit (rappel). Rock Climbing
5
PRVNÍ POKUS (Cesta greenhornů)
Along the edge that marks the end of the SE wall, over 2 ledges (piton) and over an… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Prasečí koutek
Higher up the slope, a pillar juts out from the wall. Up its right corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Hovězí sokolík
Via a narrow crack on the right side of the pillar of route 'Prasečí koutek' (Pig's… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Normálka
From the fore-summit via a crack on the right edge of the NW wall. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Vertical wall
5
Skluzavka
In the East wall, up a groove, clearly visible from Zámek (castle), (piton) to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Podzimní
Approach up the wall into the corner delimiting the S pillar from the right. Up (piton)… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing