Svatošské skály in the Ohře valley is the largest area in the Karlovarsko group – 120 routes on 11 rocks, grades 3–9-. Zámek and Muzikanti have the most routes, followed by Nevěsta s ženichem, Tchýně, Svědkové and Tchán. Mostly traditional climbing on cams, with fixed belays on some routes.
Part of Karlovy Vary region, Svatošské skály has 120 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 3 to 8+/9-. Explore its 11 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Friends, Fixed belay, Vertical wall.
Rules
The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commission's rules apply: do not alter the rock or holds, do not climb on wet rock, and follow ČHS principles for first ascents.
Zámek Muzikanti Nevěsta s ženichem Tchýně Svědkové Tchán Páter Trpaslík Samotář Opilý muzikant Svatoš
5
Sokolíková
To the right of Stretzovka, up a narrow chimney to the balcony, from there via the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
5
Hrana
Up the right edge of the narrow chimney of the Sokolíkova route to its end. Now slightly… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
3
Normálka
Through the gully to the saddle and from the right onto the block and along the SW edge… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5+
Myšákův variant
Immediately to the right of the Stretzovka chimney, along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6-
Ohří cesta
Cracks of the SE wall. Approach via the gully to the overhang, from the right (piton) up… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Spirálová
Via the Ohří route to the 1st ring, traverse to Gotická. From Gotická, a strenuous… Rock Climbing Friends
6
Východní
From the fore-summit up the NE wall (ring) and right to the N edge (piton). Then slightly… Rock Climbing Friends
5
Buhlova hrana - k varianta
Approach to Buhlova hrana directly from the base of the tower via an overhanging, brittle… Rock Climbing Friends
4
Buhlova hrana
Traverse the NE wall from the fore-summit to the E edge to a small balcony. Along the… Rock Climbing Friends
3
Špindíra
Through a depression in the wall of the outer massif to the balcony, then over a detached… Rock Climbing
4
Frolkův pilíř
Approach at the lowest point of the S pillar via two cracks upwards (ring), traverse… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5+
Smrková
Up the pillar in the middle of the southeast wall of Svědkové (Witnesses). Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5+
Skákavá
Up the overhanging small wall diagonally left to the edge and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
4
Stará německá
From the right into a small indentation, traverse left into the gully and straight up it… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Rozpukaná
To the right of the corner, up cracks below the overhang (piton), then left into the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Hřebenovka
Along the ridge over all the summits of Svědkové (Witnesses). Start at Páter. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Pochoďák
Along the edge to the left of the prominent chimney up to below the overhang (piton).… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
8+/9-
Poslední přelíčení (Projekt 8+)
To the left of the Gotická route, up the wall to the last anchor. Rock Climbing
5
Svatební
Up the prominent corner to the left of Gotická via 3 bolts to the balcony, from there… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6
Gotická hrana
Up the fractured SW wall slightly right to the S edge, traverse left (ring) and along a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay
6
Nervové zhroucení
Overhang and wall between the Gotická and Ohří routes. Nice climbing to the tower over… Rock Climbing
5
Normálka
From the fore-summit in the NW wall, over a ring along cracks to the balcony, then up the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Severní stěna
Directly up the wall (2 pitons) briefly to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6
Comici - var.
From the fore-summit along the edge to the piton of the Eastern Route and further along… Rock Climbing Friends
7
Comici
Approach in the W wall. To the fore-summit and up the wall to the right edge, along it… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing