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Climbing at U Mouřenína

103 routes
11 areas
1–9 grades

U Mouřenína in the Prachov Rocks in Bohemian Paradise offers more than 100 routes on 11 towers – most on Mouřenín, with more on Mravenčí věž, Pik, Šikmá věž, Sloní hlava and Mouřenínek (Strážce). The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 9.

Part of Prachov Rocks, U Mouřenína has 103 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9. Explore its 11 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority Nature Conservation Agency Bohemian Paradise

The site operator sets the conditions for climbers (entry, permits) – check them before you go.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Mouřenín 18 routes Mravenčí věž 14 routes Pik 13 routes Šikmá věž 12 routes Sloní hlava 9 routes Mouřenínek (Strážce) 9 routes Manželské sedátko 7 routes Čihadla 6 routes Styk 5 routes Eunuch 5 routes Barberova věž 5 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
7
Mravenčí věž
Up the east face to the ring, diagonally right behind the edge and via a small pillar… Rock Climbing
7
Mravenčí věž
Three meters to the right of the northeast edge, directly up the north face. Rock Climbing
5
Mravenčí věž
To the right along the northeast edge, then diagonally right to the ring, up the gully to… Rock Climbing
6-
Mravenčí věž
Up the wall directly to the ring of “Bauš's Wall” and via it to the summit.
6-
Mravenčí věž
Up the center of the north face to the ring, diagonally right (sling) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Mravenčí věž
Approach from the north via the overhanging west edge above the overhang (ring) and along… Rock Climbing
9
Mravenčí věž
To the right of the western overhanging edge via the overhanging wall (ring) above the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Mravenčí věž
In the left part of the wall via the largest overhang (ring) and up the wall over the 2nd…
8
Mravenčí věž
To the right of the North Right Route, up the wall over the overhang and along the crack. Rock Climbing
8
Mravenčí věž
In the right part of the N face diagonally right to a small pillar/overhang and up it to…
8
Mravenčí věž
Up the center of the south face via the ring to the ring of the Old Route. Rock Climbing
6
Mravenčí věž
Along the southeast edge through a crack, higher up the wall to the ring, 1 m left and up… Rock Climbing
6
Mravenčí věž
Along the northeast edge to a ledge, diagonally left into the south face (ring), up and… Rock Climbing
8
Mravenčí věž
To the right of the SE edge over the overhang to the 1st ring, up the wall directly to…
7
Šikmá věž
From the second ring left to the northwest edge. Rock Climbing
6-
Šikmá věž
Up the south face directly to the ring. Rock Climbing
7
Šikmá věž
Along the edge directly over the ring to a small balcony and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Šikmá věž
In the S face via an overhanging small pillar/arete and along a diagonal crack left to…
7/7+
Šikmá věž
Up the overhanging gully in the southeast edge to a small ledge and then via the… Rock Climbing
8
Šikmá věž
From the northern fore-rock via an overhang, diagonally left to a ledge, higher up to a… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Šikmá věž
Stepping over from the boulder into the east face, to the crack, along it via the…
6-
Šikmá věž
Along the northeast edge via the ring. Rock Climbing
7
Šikmá věž
From the ledge in the west face diagonally right to the ring, to the crack in the south… Rock Climbing
8
Šikmá věž
From the block overhanging into the middle of the overhanging wall and over two rings and…
7-/7
Šikmá věž
Up the right part of the north face via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Šikmá věž
From the west to the northwest edge via the ring. Rock Climbing
4
Mouřenín
Rock Climbing
7
Mouřenín
Danger
7
Mouřenín
Face between the routes Northwest Edge and North Right Crack. Rock Climbing
7
Mouřenín
Along the Southwest edge. Rock Climbing

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