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Climbing at U Mouřenína

103 routes
11 areas
1–9 grades

U Mouřenína in the Prachov Rocks in Bohemian Paradise offers more than 100 routes on 11 towers – most on Mouřenín, with more on Mravenčí věž, Pik, Šikmá věž, Sloní hlava and Mouřenínek (Strážce). The climbing is traditional on sandstone with rings and textile protection; grades from 1 to 9.

Part of Prachov Rocks, U Mouřenína has 103 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 9. Explore its 11 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Danger.

Rules

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority Nature Conservation Agency Bohemian Paradise

The site operator sets the conditions for climbers (entry, permits) – check them before you go.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Mouřenín 18 routes Mravenčí věž 14 routes Pik 13 routes Šikmá věž 12 routes Sloní hlava 9 routes Mouřenínek (Strážce) 9 routes Manželské sedátko 7 routes Čihadla 6 routes Styk 5 routes Eunuch 5 routes Barberova věž 5 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
7/7+
Pik
6
Styk
Along the edge.
6
Pik
Right of the West Chimney route to the ring, traverse to the SW edge (slings), to the… Rock Climbing
8
Pik
Directly to the ring. Rock Climbing
6
Pik
Up the right part of the north face (ring), directly to a distinctive hole, diagonally… Rock Climbing
9
Pik
6-
Pik
7/7+
Styk
In the valley wall from the left to the ring and directly to the summit.
1
Styk
Up the plateau wall via tiered balconies to the summit.
7
Pik
From the south, up the face via the corner under the overhang, traverse right to the SE… Rock Climbing
7
Pik
From the north via a crack to the balcony and left along the northeast edge. Rock Climbing
2
Barberova věž
Up the S face to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Pik
From the east, traverse diagonally left upwards behind the edge into the south face (ring… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pik
Left edge of the East Chimney up over the ring. Rock Climbing
5
Pik
From the first ring to the ring of the East Edge route. Rock Climbing
2
Pik
From the east via the chimney and right to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Barberova věž
Up the face over two rings Rock Climbing
5
Barberova věž
Left of the SE edge to the summit.
5
Barberova věž
Slightly to the right below the rappel point
3
Barberova věž
Rock Climbing
3
Manželské sedátko
Rock Climbing
3
Manželské sedátko
Along the edge
7
Manželské sedátko
Via the crack in the valley face to the balcony and up the northeast face. Rock Climbing
6-
Manželské sedátko
Up the valley face to K, diagonally left and up the edge.
1
Manželské sedátko
Rock Climbing
6
Manželské sedátko
Rock Climbing
6
Mouřenínek (Strážce)
Up the S wall into the small cave, diagonally right to the ledge, traverse left (ring),… Rock Climbing
6-
Mouřenínek (Strážce)
Up the wall over a ring to the fore-summit and optionally to the summit.
7
Mouřenínek (Strážce)
Directly through the crack and over the overhang to the ring of the “Presto, presto!”…
7
Mouřenínek (Strážce)
from the west over the overhang to K and by SW edge upwards.

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